BERLIN: A JOURNEY THROUGH HISTORY & CULTURE
JANUARY 2025
After a long-haul flight from Perth to Berlin via Doha, we kicked off our adventure in Germany’s capital. It was our first time flying with Qatar Airways, and while the flight itself was smooth, Doha Airport felt a bit chaotic and disorganised. However, a hot shower at Gate C30 was a lifesaver, helping us refresh after the overnight flight and early morning arrival.
We landed in Berlin just after lunch, greeted by crisp 7-degree temperatures. Our home base for the trip was the Wilde Aparthotel near Checkpoint Charlie. The apartment’s central location made it ideal for exploring, and its modern interiors were a welcome retreat after long days of sightseeing.
Exploring the City Centre
Eager to stretch our legs, we started at Potsdamer Platz, once a bustling city square that was heavily bombed during the Second World War and later became a no-man's land during the Cold War. Today, it's a symbol of Berlin's resilience, with modern skyscrapers and vibrant public spaces replacing the scarred past.
A short walk brought us to the Mauermuseum – Checkpoint Charlie Museum, dedicated to the stories of those who lived under the shadow of the Berlin Wall. The daring escape attempts, from modified cars to homemade hot air balloons, highlight the human spirit's drive for freedom. Checkpoint Charlie itself, the most famous crossing point between East and West Berlin, features a symbolic photo of an American soldier facing a Soviet soldier, reflecting the tense stand-offs of the Cold War. The guardhouse and sign, though replicas, remain reminders of the city's divided history.
We wrapped up our first evening with dinner at Barcelona Tapas Bar & Restaurant, enjoying Spanish flavours in a relaxed setting.
Historical Landmarks
With sunrise at 8:00 am and sunset around 4:00 pm, our days were short. We met Nicole, our guide from Tours By Locals, outside our hotel for a private "Three Centuries" walking tour. Nicole provided insights into Berlin’s layered history, from the post-war era to its mix of refugees, artists, and ideologists today.
Our route took us to:
Topography of Terror: This museum, located on the former site of the Gestapo and SS headquarters, documents Nazi atrocities. Preserved sections of the Berlin Wall provide a stark reminder of the city's divided past.
Hitler's Bunker: The site where Hitler spent his final days in 1945. The bunker isn’t accessible, but a plaque marks its location. Post-war, the Soviets tried to demolish it, but the structure proved too resilient.
Memorial to the Murdered Jews of Europe: A field of 2,711 concrete slabs of varying heights, designed by architect Peter Eisenman. The disorienting design evokes the sense of loss during the Holocaust. No official interpretation is provided, encouraging personal reflection.
Brandenburg Gate: Completed in 1791, this neoclassical monument symbolised division during the Cold War. Stalin had the Quadriga statue on top turned to face east, symbolising Soviet dominance. In 1987, David Bowie performed near the Wall, reportedly inspiring East Berliners. Today, it stands for unity and peace.
The Reichstag Building: Built in 1894, the building was damaged in the 1933 fire that the Nazis used to consolidate power. After reunification, it was restored, and its glass dome, designed by Sir Norman Foster, offers panoramic views of Berlin. Tours of the Reichstag and Dome can be booked online.
We had lunch at A Mano in East Berlin, enjoying Italian cuisine. Afterwards, we explored the area’s boxy apartments with minimal balconies, a reminder of life in East Berlin. Thankfully, the city’s green spaces and nearby forests provided residents with an escape from urban life.
Along the Spree
After a quick rest, we visited the East Side Gallery along the Spree River. The Berlin Wall, originally built in 1961, stood 3.6 metres high and stretched over 155 kilometres. The East Side Gallery is a 1.3-kilometre stretch of the Wall, now an open-air gallery featuring over 100 murals from artists worldwide, each reflecting themes of freedom and change.
Nearby, the Oberbaum Bridge connects the districts of Friedrichshain and Kreuzberg, symbolising the city’s reunification. This area is lively, featuring the Uber Music Hall, Arena, and a large shopping mall.
We had drinks at Bar 260, a rooftop cocktail bar offering views of the Spree River and the East Side Gallery. Dinner was a traditional German meal of currywurst, sauerkraut, and beer.
We also visited the Berlin Story Bunker, a museum housed in a WWII bunker that chronicles Berlin’s turbulent history through detailed exhibits and multimedia presentations.
Museum Island and Beyond
Berlin is perfect for walking, especially in winter when there are fewer tourists. We averaged 15 to 20 km a day, rarely using the underground. When needed, the Berlin underground system was efficient, and the Berlin Welcome Card offered unlimited travel.
Walking down Unter den Linden, a boulevard lined with linden trees, we crossed the Spree River to Museum Island. This UNESCO World Heritage site houses five renowned museums, including the Pergamon Museum and the Altes Museum. The Berliner Dom (Berlin Cathedral) stands nearby, where we climbed 270 steps for one of the best views of the city.
The DDR Museum provided a hands-on experience of life behind the Berlin Wall, detailing daily life in East Germany with interactive exhibits, from rationing challenges to driving Trabant cars.
Markets and Neighbourhoods
I enjoy a hop-on/hop-off bus—it’s a good way to get information quickly. Ku’damm (Kurfurstendamm) is a bustling boulevard perfect for shopping and people-watching. The walk from Alexanderplatz to Strausberger Platz feels almost like being in Moscow, with its grand Soviet-style architecture.
The Kaiser Wilhelm Memorial Church on Breitscheidplatz is one of Berlin's most famous landmarks. The original West Tower, partially destroyed during a 1943 bombing, now stands as a striking ruin and a memorial for peace between nations.
At Markthalle Neun, open from noon, we sampled fresh pastas, flammkuchen, fruits, vegetables, and wine. This indoor market, reminiscent of Lisbon’s Timeout Market, is a food lover’s paradise.
In Charlottenburg, a neighbourhood with baroque architecture, we dined at Golden Phoenix, a French-influenced Chinese restaurant—a must-visit.
Exploring Prenzlauer Berg and Panko
Once an industrial, working-class neighbourhood in East Berlin, Prenzlauer Berg has become a trendy area since reunification in 1989. Kollwitzplatz exudes charm with stucco facades from the Wilhelminian period. The surrounding Kollwitzkiez is popular with locals and tourists, offering a variety of shops, cafés, and restaurants. Prater Garten, Berlin’s oldest beer garden, is also located here.
We also visited the Mauerpark Flea Market, a bustling spot popular for its eclectic mix of vintage treasures, handmade crafts, and street food. On Sundays, the park comes alive with karaoke sessions and live music.
Berlin Wall Memorial
In the heart of the city, the Berlin Wall Memorial on Bernauer Strasse commemorates German division. Extending along 1.4 kilometres of the former border strip, it’s the only section preserved in its full depth, allowing visitors to see the various elements of the border strip as it looked in the 1980s.
On our final night in Berlin, our enthusiasm for German cuisine had completely faded. Instead, we treated ourselves to an exceptional steak at Chicago Steakhouse. While it wasn’t a budget-friendly choice, the 75+ year-old Japanese chef prepared our T-Bone steak to absolute perfection, making every bite worth it.
Reflections on Berlin
Our week in Berlin was both educational and memorable. The city’s rich history is visible in every street, building, and monument, offering reminders of the darkest and most inspiring moments of the past century. Yet, Berlin is not just its history—it’s a city full of creativity and culture. From its memorials and museums to its markets and neighbourhoods, Berlin offered a mix of reflection and discovery. We left with a deeper understanding of and a lasting appreciation for the city’s spirit, eager to return someday.
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