ANTARCTICA WITH SILVERSEAS

Antarctica sits high on many bucket lists — the seventh continent and one of the most remote places on Earth. For us, it became a once-in-a-lifetime journey, and one we feel incredibly fortunate to have taken.

Planning started more than a year in advance. Berths are limited and sell out quickly, so timing matters. We also placed a bid for a cabin upgrade, which was unexpectedly successful. The result was not just the chance to visit Antarctica, but to do so with a level of comfort that made an already remarkable trip even better.

Getting to Antarctica from Perth is no small undertaking. We flew from Perth to Sydney, spending a couple of days there before boarding the direct Qantas flight from Sydney to Santiago. Departing around midday, the 14-hour flight delivered us into Chile mid-morning the same day, thanks to the time difference.

SANTIAGO

The approach into Santiago is impressive. The city sits in a basin, framed by the Andes to the east and the coastal mountain range to the west — a striking first glimpse of Chile, arriving over the central valley that feeds much of the country — ordered farmland, open space and a quality of light that felt unexpectedly similar to Perth.

Entering Chile is relatively straightforward. While some nationalities require an eVisa, passport holders from Australia, Canada, the United States and the European Union can enter visa-free for tourism purposes.

All travellers entering Chile must complete the online Digital Affidavit for Entry to Chile within 48 hours of arrival. At passport control, you’ll be issued with a Tarjeta Única Migratoria (TUM) — either electronically or as a paper slip. Check the details carefully and keep it safe, as it’s required when leaving Chile.

Santiago Airport is located around 30 minutes from the city centre, depending on traffic. The safest way to reach your accommodation is via an official airport taxi or transfer service. After clearing customs and entering the arrivals hall, you’ll see several authorised transport counters where you can pre-pay a fixed fare and be allocated a driver.

It’s best to avoid hailing taxis outside the terminal, as overcharging is common. Ride-share services such as Uber operate in Chile but have restricted access at the airport due to local regulations, which can make pick-ups unreliable. For this reason, stick to official airport transport services for travel to and from Santiago Airport.

Once in Santiago, we were firmly in Silversea’s care. We stayed at the Ritz-Carlton, checked in via the Silversea desk, and headed out to explore the city for the afternoon.

Within the city, ride-share services proved to be the easiest way to get around. Keen to sample Chile’s food and wine, we made our way to the Mercado Central de Santiago (Central Market). In hindsight, it wasn’t our best decision. Despite being aware that some central areas attract pickpockets, I underestimated how brazen it could be — my necklace was pulled straight from my neck. A sharp reminder to stay alert in busy tourist spots, even in broad daylight.

From there, we visited the Museum of Memory & Human Rights. Free to enter, the museum focuses on Chile’s recent history, documenting the human rights violations that occurred between 1973 and 1990. The exhibits use photographs, archival material and personal accounts to provide context to this period, making it a worthwhile and informative stop when exploring Santiago.

Although we didn’t have time to visit, one of Santiago’s standout attractions is the historic funicular and cable car at Cerro San Cristóbal. The funicular climbs from the Bellavista neighbourhood up the hillside, while the cable car runs across the park and down the opposite side, offering wide views over the city and the Andes. The two can be linked as a single experience, making it an easy and scenic way to explore the area without backtracking.

We had dinner at Osaka, in the upmarket Las Condes area of Santiago. The restaurant is known for its Nikkei cuisine — a Japanese–Peruvian style that has gained a strong following in Chile.

Chile has a small but long-established Japanese community, dating back to the late 19th and early 20th centuries. Combined with Chile’s exceptional seafood and the influence of neighbouring Peru, this has helped drive the popularity of Japanese and Japanese-fusion restaurants across Santiago, particularly in its more affluent neighbourhoods.

On our return through Santiago, we stayed in the Lastarria neighbourhood at Hotel Magnolia. Set in a heritage building that’s been carefully renovated, it offered a very different experience to our earlier stay at the Ritz-Carlton — less polished and more local, with the city very much on your doorstep.

Lastarria is one of Santiago’s more lively and creative neighbourhoods, known for its galleries, cafés and strong food scene. Staying locally made it easy to step straight out for the evening. We had drinks at Bocanáriz, a favourite for Chilean wines, before heading next door for dinner at Chipe Libre, which focuses on pisco-led drinks and casual dining. Visiting on a Saturday added to the atmosphere, with local markets in full swing and street buskers bringing extra energy to the area.

The hotel is also just a short walk from Cerro Santa Lucía, where paths lead up to the historic fortifications and wide views across central Santiago.

PUENTA ARENAS

Silversea had hoped to have its purpose-built hotel, The Cormorant at 55 South, open by January 2026. Had it been ready, guests would have bypassed Punta Arenas altogether and flown directly into Puerto Williams before continuing on to Antarctica.

As the hotel wasn’t quite ready to receive guests, Silversea instead chartered flights to Punta Arenas, one of the main access points to southern Patagonia and a long-established hub for Antarctic departures. We stayed overnight at the Dreams Hotel before continuing on to King George Island.

Punta Arenas is located on the Strait of Magellan, a naturally sheltered waterway that long provided a safer passage and reliable anchorage compared with the open seas around Cape Horn. Before the opening of the Panama Canal, much of the maritime traffic travelling between the Atlantic and Pacific oceans passed through this region. Punta Arenas grew prosperous during this period, built on the wealth generated by shipping and later by the livestock industry.

That prosperity is still visible today, with elegant historic buildings lining the streets around the main square. The compact centre is easy to explore on foot, and a self-guided walking tour offers a good introduction to the city’s past. Today, Punta Arenas primarily functions as a hub for Patagonia and Antarctic tourism, with many expeditions beginning or passing through the city.

ANTARCTICA

Flying to Antarctica is all about timing. King George Island is around a two-hour flight from Punta Arenas, but landing is entirely weather dependent, with visibility needing to be near-perfect for aircraft to touch down.

We were extremely fortunate. Our charter flight departed at 6.30am and by 9.00am we were boarding the ship. The swap-over of outgoing guests from the previous cruise meant cabins weren’t available until later in the afternoon, but after what felt like days of travelling, it was simply a relief to have finally arrived.

King George Island is one of the few places in Antarctica with a permanent human presence. Several international research stations are based here, operated by countries including Chile, Russia, China, South Korea and Uruguay. Its airstrip and relative accessibility make it a key logistical gateway to the Antarctic Peninsula, although it remains very much part of Antarctica’s protected environment.

Strict environmental protocols apply from the moment you arrive. Nothing can be placed directly on the ground, and all visitors must wear biosecurity-clean boots and approved outer layers to prevent the introduction of foreign organisms. These are supplied by Silversea and form part of the broader conservation measures that all Antarctic operators are required to follow.

Visitor numbers are tightly controlled. Under guidelines set by the International Association of Antarctica Tour Operators (IAATO), no more than 100 passengers are allowed ashore at any one time. Ships carefully coordinate landings and anchorage positions, and during peak season vessels effectively queue offshore, timing arrivals and departures to minimise environmental impact.

Our home for the week was Silverseas Silver Wind. Purpose-built for expedition cruising, the ship strikes a balance between comfort and capability. Accommodating around 240 guests and supported by a crew of approximately 250 staff, everything onboard ran smoothly throughout the voyage.

The six-day return voyage began at King George Island, travelling south through the Antarctic Sound, along the Antarctic Peninsula, and around the South Shetland Islands, before returning to King George Island.

Days were structured but varied. Expedition cruising offers constant options — guided hikes, zodiac landings, kayaking and wildlife-focused excursions — all led by an experienced expedition team. Their combined knowledge of the continent added valuable context to every landing and lecture, turning each day into more than just sightseeing.

Icebergs are vast and constant, but it’s the wildlife that stands out most in Antarctica. Penguins are the dominant species, with large colonies of Gentoo, Chinstrap and Adélie penguins creating near-constant noise and a smell that lingers long after you leave the colonies.

Weddell seals were frequently seen resting on beaches and ice floes, while a juvenile elephant seal lay basking as we kayaked past. A leopard seal feeding on its prey was a confronting but memorable sight, and whales regularly surfaced and breached in the bays. Some travellers were also lucky enough to spot orcas moving through the area.

The scenery is consistently impressive, but no two days are the same. Weather, wind and swell dictate everything in Antarctica. We experienced a mix of conditions — several clear, sunny days alongside others that were overcast and blizzard-like.

One popular onboard event was the polar plunge, with 93 passengers choosing to take part. The water temperature hovered around –2°C, and participants were secured with a safety harness — a brief but bracing experience by all accounts

Only one day was completely weathered out, preventing us from landing. Onboard, the expedition team filled the gap with talks and activities, including an engaging lecture on penguins by kayak expedition leader Nahuel, which proved to be a highlight in its own right.

Antarctica is not an easy destination, and that’s part of its appeal. Travel is weather dependent, plans shift daily, and flexibility is essential. In return, you experience a place that remains largely untouched and carefully protected.

GOLDEN OUTBACK ROADIE - PERTH TO KALGOORLIE

 GOLDEN OUTBACK ROADIE

SEPTEMBER 2025

September marks the beginning of wildflower season in Western Australia. Last year, our journey took us north — you can read about that adventure here. This time, we ventured east into the Goldfields, and the trip more than lived up to expectations.

Gold was first discovered in Coolgardie, around 600 kilometres east of Perth, in 1892. Just six months later, prospector Patrick (Paddy) Hannan, together with Thomas Flanagan and Daniel Shea, struck a rich deposit in Kalgoorlie. Their find sparked the great gold rush, which in turn drove the development of vital infrastructure such as the water pipeline and the railway.

Leaving Perth, we travelled east and joined the Golden Pipeline Heritage Trail at its starting point, Mundaring Weir. By 1895, the Goldfields were facing a severe water shortage. In response, Premier John Forrest launched an ambitious scheme in 1896 to pump water 563 kilometres from the dam at Mundaring all the way to Kalgoorlie. The project was placed in the hands of engineer C.Y. O’Connor, whose vision and expertise made the seemingly impossible a reality. Remarkably, the pipeline is still in operation today.

Just over an hour from Perth, Northam is the gateway to the Avon Valley and the starting point of the Silo Art Trail. In spring, it’s surrounded by fields of golden canola, making it a lovely spot to pause for a coffee and stretch your legs. You can also drop in at the local tourist bureau to pick up maps and brochures for exploring the eastern Wheatbelt and Goldfields. While you’re there, don’t miss a walk across Northam’s heritage-listed suspension bridge, one of the town’s highlights.

There are eight pump stations along the Golden Pipeline, and the Cunderdin Museum is housed in Pump Station No. 3. Built in 1902, it still showcases the original steam engines and boilers once used to pump water to the Goldfields—though now they stand as historic exhibits rather than working machines. The museum captures the spirit of the Gold Rush with recreated miners’ campsites, an extensive collection of farming machinery, and even a beautifully restored 1950s railway dining car.

In the Rural Lifestyle Pavilion, you’ll also find displays highlighting Cunderdin’s wartime contribution, along with a unique interactive “earthquake house” that re-creates the dramatic 1968 Meckering earthquake, which measured 6.9 on the Richter scale and destroyed much of the town.

The Cunderdin Hill Lookout made the perfect spot for a picnic lunch. Surrounded by a colourful carpet of wildflowers, we enjoyed spectacular 360-degree views stretching out across the Wheatbelt.

One of the biggest challenges facing Wheatbelt farmers is rising salinity, caused by the loss of deep-rooted vegetation. The Tammin Hydrology Model (Kadjininy Kep) illustrates how the removal of trees has changed the landscape and highlights the management strategies being used to address both current and future problems. Located just behind the Tammin Town Hall, it makes for an informative stop—and you’ll also find clean public toilets conveniently close by.

Turning off the highway, we headed south-east into Totadgin Conservation Park and set out on the Gnamma Walk Circuit, an easy 1.3 km loop around the granite outcrop. Often called a “mini Wave Rock”, Totadgin Rock is a striking formation shaped over billions of years.

On the way back to the carpark, we passed one of Hunt’s Wells. These were created in the 1860s by explorer Charles Cooke Hunt, who identified and developed water sources at the base of granite outcrops to support travel through the region.

Only halfway to Kalgoorlie, we stopped overnight in Merredin. 'The Lodge' at Little Rock was the perfect place to rest, and we finished the day watching the sun set over the town’s silos.

We were fortunate with the weather. After a wet winter, our trip coincided with a glorious cloud-free week, with temperatures sitting in the mid to high 20s. It meant we could take things at a more leisurely pace, and our next stop was Westonia.

Gold was first discovered here in 1910, and the town has been carefully preserved to reflect its boom years. The old shopfront facades transport you back in time, while the Hood-Penn Museum brings history to life with detailed scenes of early life in the shire. One of the highlights is an underground mine tunnel display, complete with sound effects and conversations between miners — a moving and immersive glimpse into the past.

Just outside the Westonia town centre is the Edna May Gold Mine Lookout. Recently re-opened to the public, it offers a striking view of the open-cut mine and a clear example of the scale of modern gold mining.

To avoid the heavy road trains and roadworks, we took the more scenic back roads to Southern Cross before rejoining the Great Eastern Highway. From there, we followed the pipeline once more, passing through Coolgardie and continuing on to Kalgoorlie.

KALGOORLIE

The last time I visited Kalgoorlie was in 2020 for the famous Kalgoorlie Race Round — you can read about that trip here. This time, however, I was keen to explore a different side of the city, one that focused more on its history and heritage.

We based ourselves at Rydges Kalgoorlie, a very comfortable stay and the perfect place to settle in for three nights while we explored the local area.

Kalgoorlie’s Super Pit is the largest open-cut gold mine in Australia and is so vast it’s often said to be visible from space. As impressive as the Edna May Mine in Westonia was, it’s just a speck compared to the scale of the Super Pit. The best views are from the Super Pit Lookout, or you can join a guided Super Pit Tour for a closer look at this incredible operation. Alternatively, spend half a day at Hannan's North Tourist Mine and try your luck at panning for gold.

We arrived just in time for sunset at Mount Charlotte Reservoir and Lookout, the end point of the Golden Pipeline Trail. This is where the water pumped all the way from Perth finally arrives — fittingly, at the very spot where Paddy Hannan first discovered gold.

As mentioned earlier, Kalgoorlie became the centre of the gold rush in 1893. By 1901 its population had reached 4,793, and just two years later it had grown to 6,790. Boomtime brought with it a bustling town filled with hotels, brothels and gambling halls.

One of the most notable establishments was the Palace Hotel, built in 1897. It quickly became a hub for gatherings and public speeches, and it remains a landmark today. Still welcoming visitors, the hotel’s Balcony Bar & Restaurant offers hearty meals — a tradition that feels perfectly in keeping with the miners and travellers who came before.

Built in 1908, the Kalgoorlie Town Hall is now home to the Kalgoorlie Visitors Centre. On Mondays and Wednesdays, local historian Timothy Moore leads tours through the impressive Edwardian building. With his knowledge and enthusiasm, Tim brings the past to life as he shares stories while guiding visitors through the Council Chambers, the Mayor’s Parlour, and the original theatre.

On Tuesday's and Thursday's, Tim can be found giving tours of the rival Boulder Town Hall and its famous Goatcher Curtain. If you can't make one of Tim's tours, then opt for the Kalgoorlie Boulder Audio Walking Tour. Headsets and maps are available from the Visitors Centre.

If you’re visiting Kalgoorlie for the first time, a stop at the Museum of the Goldfields on Hannan Street is a must. Free to enter, it’s the perfect place to begin exploring the city’s past, from the gold rush era to the stories of the local Indigenous culture. One of the highlights is the impressive gold vault — an experience you definitely won’t want to miss.

Often described as one of the world’s oldest surviving brothels, Questa Casa offers a very different way to experience Kalgoorlie and understand life in the Goldfields. Tucked behind the iconic pink-and-white corrugated-iron façade on Hay Street, Madam Carmel welcomes visitors for a candid tour that traces the history of Western Australia’s former containment policy, what daily life was like for a “working lady”, and how society viewed the trade. Since the policy was lifted around 2000, the Pink House is best known for its guided tours (typically held at 3 pm most days—worth booking ahead).

The Northern Goldfields are an adventure in their own right. They take in the Golden Quest Discovery Trail, a 965-kilometre self-drive loop through historic gold mining country, as well as The Outback Way, which begins in Laverton and stretches inland all the way to Uluru before finishing in Winton, Queensland.

We travelled as far as Menzies — a once-booming gold mining town that today has a population of around 80. It’s home to Laurie’s Café, along with basic public facilities and a self-serve petrol pump, but little else.

In 2003, artist Antony Gormley was commissioned to create 'Inside Australia' to mark the 50th anniversary of the Perth International Arts Festival. The result was 51 sculptures, each derived from laser scans of Menzies’ inhabitants. Scattered across 10 kilometres of the saltpan at Lake Ballard, the figures appear like a shimmering mirage. As you reach one, another comes into view in the distance, tempting you to walk further across the vast white landscape.

The illusion of water on the horizon is deceiving, and before long the surface underfoot can turn soft and mushy, making the walk more challenging. Be prepared for the reflective heat, and take sensible precautions — wear sturdy shoes, a hat, and carry plenty of water.

A little further on from Lake Ballard is Snake Hill Lookout. From here you can’t see the sculptures, but you do get a sweeping view of the vast salt lake stretching out below.

On our way back to Kalgoorlie, we couldn’t resist a stop at the Broad Arrow Tavern. Once at the heart of a thriving gold mining town of around 15,000 residents, Broad Arrow is now little more than a ghost town. The tavern, however, still operates and remains a local icon. In years gone by, it was also the place where the ladies from Questa Casa would spend their days off.

The return trip to Perth was a long day on the road, broken up with comfort stops and a delicious fish burger at the Ettamogah Pub in Cunderdin. After covering 1,700 kilometres, we came away with a much deeper appreciation of Western Australia’s gold rush history and the remarkable story of the Golden Pipeline. What a fabulous country we live in — and what treasures there are to explore.