Adelaide & McLaren Vale

A Winter Long Weekend

JULY 2026

Four of us — two couples — flew across from Perth for five winter nights in South Australia. The plan was simple: two nights in the city, two in wine country, and one last night back in town, with the drive home routed through the Adelaide Hills.

It was a food-and-wine trip, but not a stuffy one — we leaned toward the funky and the fireside over anything formal.

July has one more trick up its sleeve: Illuminate Adelaide, the winter festival that lights the city for the whole month with a free after-dark trail of projections, glowing roving performers and interactive light art through the streets.

A note for anyone visiting Adelaide in winter: it's cold — around 7–8°C at night, 15°C by day. Pack layers, and bring a foldable esky if you plan to cook in. We did, and it earned its keep.

Day one — landing into the lights

We landed as the city was already dark, picked up the hire car, and made the fifteen-minute run into town to drop our bags at Quest on Franklin, a walk-everywhere CBD apartment.

What struck us straight away was how alive the city was. On a cold winter's night the streets were busy, the wine bars packed, and theatre-goers were squeezing in a quick meal before their shows. Adelaide had turned out.

Dinner was two stops on Leigh Street. We started at Udaberri for Spanish wine and pintxos, then moved next door to Shōbōsho, a Japanese live-fire izakaya, for the banquet — duck-potsticker dumplings, scallop sashimi, charred octopus and Wagyu. At both, the staff were genuinely attentive and friendly, which set the tone for the whole trip.

We'd hoped to walk the Illuminate light trail, but the rain had other ideas. We did stop to see the big projections lighting up Government House, then ducked out of the weather to 2KW, the rooftop bar atop 2 King William Street, for a drink and a view over the city.

Day two — a full city day

We started at the Adelaide Central Market, grazing for breakfast and stocking the esky for the cook-ins ahead. A short walk down North Terrace took us to the Art Gallery of South Australia for its winter exhibition, Monet to Matisse, then next door to the South Australian Museum.

Lunch was the main meal of the day at Osteria Oggi, a retro-Italian room we happily lingered in. We'd meant to catch Digital Abyss, an immersive underwater light installation at Light Square, but couldn't track it down in the end.

We had a glass at the Leigh Street Wine Room before live stand-up from Kanan Gill at the Festival Centre — ninety minutes, no interval, very funny. We'd thought about one last loop of the light trail, but the rain and a long day had caught up with us, so we called it a night.

Day three — south into the vines

We packed up, called in at the Sunday Showground Farmers Market for produce, then drove forty minutes south to McLaren Vale, one of Australia's oldest wine regions.

The afternoon centred on the d'Arenberg Cube — a five-storey puzzle of a building dropped surreally among the vines. It's the brainchild of fourth-generation winemaker Chester Osborn, who spent years turning a rough sketch into reality. It opened in 2017, and is designed to be as layered and puzzling as the business of making wine itself.

Inside is an exhibition of Salvador Dalí sculptures. I first saw Dalí's work in Austria back in 1994 and have been intrigued ever since by his warping of time and those famous melting clocks — though a long, unhurried lunch in wine country may be the one place I've found where time genuinely does seem to bend.

We tasted upstairs with 360-degree views over the vines, and the wines were exceptional — so much so that we joined the club, with a case of their premium reds now on its way home to Perth. Lunch followed at Singapore Circus, the Cube's South-East Asian restaurant.

Next was the Never Never Distilling Co. Sunday Session at Chalk Hill — Australia's most-awarded gin, poured on a hilltop lawn with live music.

Then to our home for the next two nights: The Highland at The Vineyard Retreat, a beautifully appointed two-bedroom house with a generous verandah looking straight over the vines. We couldn't have asked for more — a welcoming fire, underfloor heating in the bathrooms, and a very generous offering of fresh eggs, bacon and bread for breakfast.

Day four — the Shiraz Trail by e-bike

We'd hired e-bikes from SA eBikes, who delivered them to the house. The Shiraz Trail is a flat former rail line running through the vineyards to the old slate town of Willunga.

It was a wet start, though, so the bikes stayed on the verandah and we drove instead to Hardys for a tasting. One of McLaren Vale's oldest names, Hardys has been making wine here since Thomas Hardy took on the Tintara winery in the 1870s, and its cellar door carries all of that history.

Lunch was at Wirra Wirra — delicious food, and a good excuse to drink a little more wine.

By afternoon the sun had come out, so we finally got on the bikes and rode a 27-kilometre loop through the vineyards. Back at the house, we watched sunset from the jacuzzi and a second night cooking in by the fire.

Day five — the high road home

We took the scenic way back through the Adelaide Hills. First stop was Bracegirdle's in Hahndorf — Australia's oldest German settlement (1839) — for chocolate and a wander down the main street.

After a wine tasting at Shaw & Smith, we had lunch was at Marshi's Kitchen in Stirling, a Sri Lankan-accented spot on the village high street. Then to Cleland Wildlife Park to hand-feed kangaroos and emus and meet a koala up close, before a tasting at Penfolds Magill Estate, the historic home of Grange on the city's edge.

Our last night was on the far side of the Adelaide Central Market at Hotel Indigo Adelaide Markets — a Chinatown-edged pocket that felt like a completely different city, though it was only a few blocks from the Quest where we'd started. We had drinks at Proof before a share-plate dinner (and a tomahawk) at Part Time Lover.

Departure

We had a leisurely breakfast at the hotel and a gentle last morning before our early-afternoon flight. If you've the time — and a little more discipline than we managed — a factory tour at Haigh's Chocolates, Australia's oldest chocolate maker (going since 1915), is well worth it, and near-impossible to leave without stocking up.

We couldn't quite escape the rain, but Adelaide and McLaren Vale are fabulous places to visit and we had an excellent time. Five nights, two cities and a valley, with a wood fire in the middle of it.

QUEENSTOWN

NEW ZEALAND'S DISNEYLAND

Easter 2026

Queenstown is the ultimate adventure playground — and it delivers in every season. So, when we asked our children if they wanted to meet up there for Easter, the answer was immediate: absolutely.

Set on the shores of Lake Wakatipu in the Otago region of New Zealand’s South Island, Queenstown hasn’t always been the adrenaline capital it is today. Its story began in the early 1860s when gold was discovered in the nearby Shotover River. Almost overnight the quiet farmland was flooded with fortune-seekers, many arriving from Australia after the Victorian gold rush began to slow.

The boomtown that emerged laid the foundations for what is now one of New Zealand’s most iconic destinations — though these days visitors come chasing adventure rather than gold.

Arriving on Good Friday, we collected our hire car at Queenstown Airport in Frankton and set off for town. The drive is only about 10 kilometres, but the single two-lane road can become heavily congested during peak holiday periods, so it’s wise to allow extra time — and simply enjoy the spectacular scenery along the way.

Queenstown itself buzzes with energy, particularly over long weekends and holiday periods, with visitors filling the streets, cafés and waterfront.

For our stay we chose a self-contained house in Fernhill, perched on the hillside just east of Queenstown. The location proved ideal: close enough to town for easy access, yet far enough away to enjoy sweeping views over Lake Wakatipu and the surrounding mountains.

As we settled in to enjoy the view and a good family chinwag, we decided to keep dinner simple and picked up takeaway from Chur Fish & Chips. It was the perfect start to our vacation: good fish and chips, lake views, and our family all together.

Day one - Our plan for the Easter weekend was simple — spend as much time outdoors as possible. To make the most of Queenstown’s incredible trail network, we hired e-bikes from Queenstown Bike Hire. Mike and his team were fantastic. They delivered the bikes directly to our accommodation and were happy to shuttle us to different starting points, allowing us to explore cycle tracks further afield without worrying about the return journey.

New Zealand’s Department of Conservation has done an exceptional job creating and maintaining walking and cycling trails throughout the country, and the Queenstown region is a perfect example of this.

From our Fernhill base we followed the well-signposted trail network towards Arrowtown, riding past Arthur’s Point and along the spectacular Shotover River. It’s here that the famous Shotover Jet roars through the narrow canyon, its driver skillfully skimming past rock walls at thrilling speed — much to the delight (and occasional screams) of the passengers onboard.

In Arrowtown we walked through the historic Chinese Settlement, built in the 1860s for Chinese miners who came to the region during the Otago gold rush. Along the river we watched other visitors — mostly families with children — trying their luck at gold panning.

Lunch at The Dishery was a welcome stop after the morning’s ride.

Rather than retracing our route, we chose an alternative cycle track for the return journey, making the most of the region’s extensive and well-maintained trail network.

By now the bike seats were starting to feel a little unforgiving and our legs were definitely aware of the 60km ride — particularly the steep climbs and tight hairpin turns. Thank goodness for e-bikes.

Fortunately, we had a reward waiting. Booked well in advance, Onsen Hot Pools & Day Spa at Arthur’s Point had been our dangling carrot all day. Overlooking the Shotover River and the surrounding mountains, the private cedar-lined pools were the perfect place to soak tired legs — cold beer in hand — and enjoy the view.

Exhausted from the day — and grateful for the clear weather — we opted for dinner at Blue Kanu. Good vibes, fun times and cocktails.

Day two — and we were definitely feeling the effects of the previous day’s ride. With daylight saving ending overnight, we took advantage of the extra hour and enjoyed a well-needed sleep in.

Although we had cycled to Arrowtown the day before, we returned by car to spend more time exploring. We wandered through the old cemetery and browsed the historic shops, along with plenty of other visitors enjoying the long weekend.

The Skyline Gondola is Queenstown’s fast track to the best views in town. Just a short walk from the centre, the cable car climbs a very steep 480 metres up Bob’s Peak, revealing sweeping 220-degree views over Lake Wakatipu and the surrounding mountains.

Once at the top you can sit back with a drink and admire the scenery — or head straight for the Skyline Luge. This is where adults rediscover their competitive streak and attempt to prove to their children that they are, in fact, still the fastest down the hill. 

Another exhilarating day in this outdoor Disneyland was fuelled by great food — sukiyaki for lunch at Goku followed by an exceptional dinner at Toast & Oak.

Day three - saw us up early and heading back to the Skyline Gondola to begin our guided hike to the Ben Lomond Summit.

While the trail can easily be done independently, we were glad to have a guide. Ollie, who was on a working holiday from the UK, joined us for the climb and his stories and local knowledge added a lot to the experience.

After a steady climb we stopped at Ben Lomond Saddle at 1,326 metres for a well-earned break before tackling the final push to the summit. The last section is a gruelling ascent across steep alpine terrain, climbing to 1,748 metres.

The full hike is around 11km return and took us about five hours, including stops. Reaching the summit was worth every step. The views were extraordinary and we were incredibly lucky to arrive on a perfectly clear day.

Day four — and I started wondering if this was the holiday I’d actually signed up for. Back on the bikes we followed the Twin Rivers Trail from Queenstown to Arrowtown before continuing along the Gibbston River Wine Trail towards Gibbston.

Passing the famous Kawarau Bridge Bungy, where brave souls launch themselves from the suspension bridge, this stretch was easily my favourite ride. Vineyards lined the hillsides while the rich turquoise river meandered below. It’s hard to imagine now, but these same rivers and valleys were once packed with hopeful miners during the 1860s gold rush, panning the very waters that today wind peacefully through Central Otago wine country.

We stopped for lunch at The Church Cellar Door & Café, before continuing along the trail past Peregrine Wines and on to Chard Farm Winery.

Chard Farm sits above the Kawarau Gorge and is accessed by a narrow gravel road cut into the cliff face. The property was originally established as farmland in the late 1800s before being developed into a vineyard. Today it produces some of the region’s well-known Pinot Noir, taking advantage of Gibbston Valley’s cool climate and rocky soils.

We enjoyed a wine tasting with Dominic — knowledgeable, witty and clearly enthusiastic about the wines and the region. Luckily for us, Mike was on hand to drive us back, which meant we could indulge in a few fine wines without worrying about the ride home.

Our last evening together and the weather had started to turn. We had a final dinner at Tatsumi. 

Day five — and we woke to heavy rain. With the bikes returned and our bags packed, we headed into town for a Fergburger.

Fergburger is legendary in Queenstown and there’s almost always a long queue snaking down the street. We had resisted the temptation all weekend, but with the rain coming down and the line unusually short, we finally caved.

Are they the best burgers in town? Pretty good. Some locals say Devil Burger is better. We’ll have to conduct a proper comparison on the next trip.

There is so much to see and do in Queenstown. If hiking and biking aren’t your thing, you can easily spend time exploring the town, strolling through the Queenstown Gardens, or taking a day trip aboard the historic TSS Earnslaw. Launched in 1912, this coal-fired steamship — known as the “Lady of the Lake” — once carried livestock and supplies to the remote farms around Lake Wakatipu and now ferries visitors across the lake.

Out on the water there are also plenty of adrenaline options, from jet boat rides to the Hydro Attack, where a shark-shaped craft launches through fast turns and jumps across the lake. And in winter, the mountains surrounding Queenstown transform into one of New Zealand’s premier ski playgrounds.

One tip: during peak periods and holiday weekends, it’s wise to book activities and restaurants in advance to avoid disappointment.

What a fabulous Easter and family getaway.