TOKYO, JAPAN
OCTOBER 2023
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| Tokyo Skytree |
I've been to Tokyo before. Back in 2008, I joined my husband on a business trip with our 8- and 6-year-old kids, and we fell in love with the city. A lot has changed since then, but Tokyo remains as fantastic as ever. It's still incredibly easy to get around, the locals are welcoming (and many more speak English), the food is exceptional, safety is top-notch, and the coffee scene goes beyond just Starbucks, which is a real plus.
Direct flights are available from Australia to Tokyo, however I flew via Singapore. Prior to arrival in Japan, all visitors must pre-register their travel details via the Visit Japan website. Once you have logged in and completed all the necessary information, you can save the QR codes to your phone, making immigration very smooth.
The Japan Rail Pass or JR Pass is a multi-use ticket that allows you to travel around Japan for a select period of time. If you are planning to visit a city outside Tokyo (JR Pass map) then this is your best option as a return Shinkansen (bullet train) fare will likely cost more than the JR Pass. Once validated, the JR Pass can also be used on all JR trains around the city.
The biggest negative of the JR Pass is locating your nearest JR Exchange Office. Although these are usually found at airports and major train stations (eg: Tokyo, Shinjuku, Kyoto etc), the stations are huge and you can easily get lost. The other negative is, the JR Pass is a paper ticket, therefore if you lose it, ruin it, or forget to collect it on your way through the turnstile, it cannot be replaced.
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| Tokyo Tower from Roppongi |
Tokyo is divided into neighbourhoods, each with its own distinct personality, therefore deciding where to stay will depend on what you want to see and do. I stayed with my daughter in Roppongi. Centrally located, it was an easy walk to the subway, great restaurants and shops. Find out more about Tokyo's neighbourhoods here.
The subway system is really easy to navigate. The lines are coloured, labelled in both Japanese and English and have numbers correlating to the station ie: Ginza G09. I found Google maps incredibly useful too as it gives you step-by-step instructions and tells you the platform number and station exit you need to use.
Japan predominantly operates on a cash-based system, therefore, it's important to carry cash. While restaurants, shops, and cafes generally accept credit cards (unless specified otherwise), it's advisable to have your physical card handy, as some places might not support contactless payments.
As of January 2022, Japan has the highest number of Michelin-starred restaurants in the world and there are over 30 types of Japanese restaurants including:
- Ramen & Soba - Noodles
- Yakitori - Grilled chicken
- Izakaya - Japanese Pub
- Tonkatsu - Deep fried pork
- Sushi - Rice and seafood
- Tempura - Fried seafood and vegetables
- Shabu-shabu - Hotpot
making finding somewhere good to eat a breeze. Yet, the Japanese willingly wait in long lines just to savor a remarkable taste experience. Micasadeco & Cafe serve fluffy soufflé pancakes. Each order takes at least 30 minutes; however, the end product is truly amazing. We happily sat in the window as the queue outside grew longer and longer.
The Japanese hold a strong fascination for animals. It's common to see pet dogs being pushed around in strollers, which initially I thought was due to the crowded streets. But I later learned it's because of their immense love for their dogs—they want to prevent them from getting tired, overexerted, or having sore paws.
For those without pets, there are places like the Chiku-Chiku Cafe where you can experience a healing session. You can spend 30 minutes to an hour, petting hedgehogs in cute little displays resembling dollhouses. For a fee, you get the chance to watch, feed, and interact with these adorable creatures.
The Shibuya Scramble is a crazy crosswalk intersection where thousands of people cross simultaneously. The optimal vantage point to witness this spectacle is from an elevated position, and numerous viewing spots surround the square. Our choice was the rooftop Mag's Park atop the Magnet Building, providing an unparalleled view. Open from 11am onwards, you can observe the crossing from either the open deck or the indoor area.
You see more on foot, so from Shibuya we wandered the back streets and poked around in the vintage fashion stores of Omotesando and then onto Harajuku, witnessing exuberant fashion styles and the fun of Takeshita Street. A train ride for cocktails in Ebisu and then onto Ginza where on Saturdays between Noon and 6.00pm central Chuo Dori street is closed to vehicles.
Ginza is a shopping mecca and is home to the world's largest Uniqlo store. There is so much to see and do in Ginza, you could easily spend a day pottering around the shops. Make sure you visit the department store food courts. They are a feast for the eyes and tummy!
As mentioned, I have been to Tokyo before, therefore visiting iconic tourist spots such as the Tokyo Tower, Skytree, Meiji Shrine or Imperial Palace were not on my to-do list, therefore, leaving me to time to explore Greater Tokyo.
Asakusa is in Northern Tokyo and easily accessible on the subway. During the Edo period (1603-1867), Asakusa was Tokyo's leading entertainment district with kabuki theatres and a large red-light district. Today, the districts drawcard is the Tokyo Skytree and the Sensoji Temple.
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| Tokyo's Skytree dominates the Asakusa skyline |
Exit the station and directly opposite is the Tourist Bureau. Here you can pick up a local map in English. I find these sometimes easier to follow than Google Maps. Here you can also join tours and exchange money.
I had a fabulous day in Asakusa. Nakamise shopping street leads you through the Hozomon Gate and onto Sensoji Temple. From there I wandered over to Shin-Nakamise Shopping Street and then onto my kind of heaven, Kappabashi Shopping Street. Google Translate became my best friend.
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| Nakamise Shopping Street |
Kappabashi is lined with shops selling pots, pans, cooking utensils, dishes and everything a restaurant operator would need. The knife stores are incredible and you can easily spend half a day poking around looking (and purchasing) at the beautifully crafted pottery bowls and cups.
Once renowned for its daily tuna auction, the Tsukiji Fish Market used to draw hordes of tourists who flocked to the inner market as early as 4 am to witness wholesalers securing their daily fish haul. However, in 2018, the wholesalers relocated, leaving behind the outer market, which still thrives. Spanning until 2 pm, this area boasts top-notch seafood eateries, souvenir boutiques, and gift shops. Tsukiji is on the Hibiya metro line, stop H10.
Tokyo's immersive art adventure teamLab Planets is an easy 2.5km walk from Tsukiji Fish Market over the Harumiohashi Bridge or just under 1km walk from Toyosu Station (Yurakucho Line Y22).
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| Hundreds of orchids suspended from a mirrored ceiling |
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| Wall to wall rope lights |
The best part of Tokyo is making each district a destination and taking the time to explore the best of the city.
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