AUSTRALIA'S TOP END (KAKADU) - JULY 2019

AUSTRALIA'S TOP END

NORTHERN TERRITORY

6 -15 July 2019

Our trip to the Northern Territory (NT) started in Darwin. A brood of four, including grandma who had flown in from Brisbane, QLD, we had coordinated a similar arrival time, so were in the car and on the road into the city in no time at all. 

Located on the Timor Sea, Darwin was named after Charles Darwin and is the largest city in the NT. With a tropical savanna climate, the best time to visit is in the dry season (June/July), when daytime temperatures, humidity and rainfall are at their minimum. 

It's been 11 years since we last visited Darwin and the changes to the city are hugely noticeable. Apartment blocks have been built everywhere, no doubt to accommodate the mining boom of 2012, however most look tired and empty and it's a real shame to see the city skyline violated by the concrete blocks.

We chose to stay at the Argus Apartments. Located in walking distance of the waterfront, we wandered down to the Wave pool, Waterfront Lagoon and Stokes Hill Wharf before dinner at Hanuman.  Hanuman is where we were introduced to green papaya salad on our first visit to Darwin and we promised to go back again one day. This was the day and it didn't disappoint. 

Darwin Wave Pool

The Museum and Art Gallery of Northern Territory is a good place to start your visit to Darwin. It details the history of the NT and has a fabulous exhibition on Cyclone Tracy which devastated the city Christmas 1974. The museum also has a nice cafe.

Other museums worth a visit are the Royal Flying Doctors Museum (which also details the Bombing of Darwin in 1942) and the Darwin Aviation Museum. 

Saltwater and freshwater crocodiles inhabit the waterways of the Northern Territory, so I take my hat off to those who choose to waterski and swim in Fannie Bay. The waters are so inviting, however chicken that I am, I will not go swimming. Having said that, Lake Alexander at East Point Reserve and near the Darwin Military Museum is popular body of water that is safe for recreational activities throughout the year. 

Mindle Beach Sunset Market are open on Thursdays and Sundays from April to October, 4pm to 9pm. Popular with tourists and locals, they offer a selection of gourmet foods, local goods and of course a stunning sunset over Fannie Bay.

If the crowded markets are too much for you, then head out to Pee Wee's at the Point for sunset drinks and/or dinner. After the markets, drinks and the sunset, we headed back into Darwin for dinner at Char Restaurant. A whole crispy fried Humpty Doo baby Barramundi whilst watching the evening glow. Fabulous!

MARY RIVER NATIONAL PARK

Up early and on the road we headed east on the Arnhem Highway towards the Mary River National Park. Our first stop was Fogg Dam and Conservation Reserve approximately 45 minutes drive from Darwin. The dam was originally built to provide irrigation for rice farmers, however the project failed and is now a refuge for wildlife, especially waterbirds. The easy access walks are open all year round. 

When we last visited there was only one Jumping Crocodile Tour on the Adelaide River. Now there are a few to choose from. Since we had previously done the tour, I didn't book in to do it again, however probably should have as it is very good. Book in advance as there isn't likely to be any availability if you just turn up. 

The Window on the Wetlands Visitors Centre showcases the Adelaide River floodplains from the top floor viewing deck. The centre also houses interactive displays which offer an insight into the ecological processes that occur in the wetlands among other things. 

Further along the highway and you can turn off to Bird Billabong, Hardies Lagoon (4WD access only) and Mary River Billabong. There is a walking track to a viewing platform at Bird Billabong and a 2km walk around Mary River Billabong.

For two nights we stayed at Wildman Wilderness Lodge, located on the Mary River Wetlands, Wildman offers safari style tents and eco lodges. We stayed in a family safari tent and enjoyed a three course dinner and buffet breakfast both days. The Lodge also offers flat wheel bikes, a pool and tours of the Mary River. 

The Mary River is one of eight rivers in the Top End with large floodplains in their catchments. Further north from Wildman Wilderness Lodge is Port Stuart. It is a 6km return hike across the floodplain, past wild buffalo, magpie geese and other wildlife,  to reach Point Stuart Coastal Reserve and Stuart's Tree Memorial Cairn. The memorial marks where John McDouall Stuart ended his journey across the Australian continent.

Take plenty of water as it is very exposed and gets very hot. Eventually you reach the coastal mangroves of Finke Bay, where you can't cool off in the inviting waters as crocs maybe lurking. The eerie feeling of being watched from behind the mangroves had me on edge and at one point I even though a school of mud skimmers were the back of a croc!

Phew - just a school of mud skimmers

Escaping the heat of the day we retreated to the airconditioned lounge at Wildman Wilderness Lodge for a game of cards and chat with the Lodge owner - a doctor who bought the property in 2011 after it had failed as a fishing and hunting lodge.

Sunset at Shady Camp

Shady Camp is known as one of the best barramundi fishing spots in the Top End. It is also the perfect setting for sunset drinks. From the viewing platform you can see crocodiles traverse the river while jabiru, osprey and sea eagles look for dinner.

Other places to explore from Wildman Wilderness Lodge are Couzens Lookout, Brian Creek Monsoon Forest, Mistake Billabong and Jimmy Creek Monsoon Forest. 

The roads in Australia are straight, long and surrounded by trees. Unless you are prepared to go a little off road, you won't see much from the highway. 

KAKADU NATIONAL PARK 

Kakadu is a living cultural landscape. For tens of thousands of years, generations of the Bininj/Mungguy have lived on and cared for this country. Their spiritual connection to the land is globally recongnised in Kakadu's World Heritage listing which honours one of the oldest living societies on earth. 

Many campsites are only accessible by 4WD. Check that the roads are open and be prepared to cross croc infested billabongs. We headed to Alligator Billabong, however hit a water crossing just after Red Lily Billabong and turned back. 

South Alligator River @ Red Lily Billabong

Just after Aurora Kakadu, you cross the South Alligator River and come to the Mamukala wetlands. Magpie geese congregate to feed here from September to October, however it is a bird watches paradise year round. There is a viewing platform and a 3km walk adjacent to the wetlands. 

Jabiru is the main township in Kakadu. The town provides a range of essential services for locals and visitors.

The Bowali Visitors Centre is your first port of call in Kakadu. Everyone must obtain a Kakadu Parks Pass, so if you haven't organised one online, you will need to purchase one. At Bowali Visitors Centre you can also find out which roads and swimming holes are open and receive a timetable of free ranger guided activities. 

Cooinda Lodge is in the Yellow Water Region and offers a range of accommodation from caravan and tent sites, to luxury tents and family suites. We stayed in family suite which was cosy for four adults, however we didn't spend much time in the room, so it was adequate for the three nights we stayed. 

Cooinda has a large family pool

Burrungkuy (Nourlangie) is where some of Kakadu's famous rock art is located. The Rainbow Serpent is a major creator being. She created passages through rocks and formed waterholes in the Kakadu landscape. She split rock faces and created ranges of hills helping form the habitat for all beings. There are many stories and sites associated with the Rainbow Serent and the Bininj/Mungguy believe she is still present today, resting, and should never be disturbed. Nourlangie is one of her resting places.

Mimih spirits were the first of the creation ancestors to paint on rock. They taught some Bininj how to paint, and other Bininj learned by copying Mimih art. Kakadu's rock art represents one of the longest historical records of any group of people in the world. 

Nourlangie has a 1.5km circular walk that takes you past an ancient Aboriginal shelter and several art sites. Kunwarddehwardde lookout provides impressive views of Kakadu's escarpment and extensive woodlands below. Most of the walk is out of direct sunlight so suitable to visit during the heat of the day, however remember to keep hydrated. 

Nourlangie from the air

There isn't a huge choice of eateries in Kakadu. Jabiru does have a handful of restaurants (usually attached to hotels or caravan parks), however as we were staying at Cooinda we were a good 50km (40 minutes drive) from Jabiru. The Barra Bar & Bistro at Cooinda offers a selection of food and drinks. When we visited there was also had a Barra & Chips van, which produced very good fish, chips, squid and salad.

We also experienced a rare outback site on our first night. It was the decider for the State of Origin football match between QLD and NSW. As it was school holidays, I'm sure all footy fans had booked into the caravan park as it had a big screen and played the football. If you weren't from Australia, you would have witnessed Australian "bogan" at its best. The people watching was just as good as the footy and NSW won!

Kakadu Air have 30 minute scenic flights departing from Cooinda air strip. Apparently you only see 1% of Kakadu from your car, so this is the perfect way to get a birds eye view of everything you are missing. It was an absolute thrill and incredible scenery.

Yellow Water Billabong Cruise

The Warradjan Aboriginal Cultural Centre is a 1km walk from Cooinda. Showcasing traditional artefacts, it is a learning centre and teaches visitors about the Aboriginal way of life and the six seasons that Kakadu experiences. 

North of Jabiru is the East Alligator Region (Erre). Ubirr, like Nourlangie is known for its rock art. The 1km circular track takes you past some amazing art and there is a 250m steep climb to the top of a rocky lookout which gives you views across the Nadab floodplain. 

Cahills Crossing  is the river crossing into Arnhem Land. Notorious for fishing and crocodiles, it is not for the faint hearted. One story states that while a man was fishing at the crossing, a croc jumped 4 metres out of the water and took his head off! The day we visited, we saw lots of fishermen, but no crocs.

The Manbiyarra Border Store sells food, drink and fishing gear. It also offers a Thai food menu until 5.30pm, after which you can find the same Thai restaurant at the Anbinik Kakadu Resort in Jabiru. We stopped for dinner on our way back to Cooinda and although the service was a little slow, the food was tasty and a change from fish and chips. 

Kakadu is home to 68 mammals (almost one-fifth of Australia's mammals), more than 120 reptiles, 26 frogs, over 300 tidal and freshwater fish species, more than 2,000 plants and over 10,000 species of insects and provides habitat for more than 290 bird species (over one-third of Australia's birds). 

One of the best ways to experience the biodiversity of Kakadu is to do a Yellow Water Cruise. We chose to be up early and do the sunrise cruise. It was magnificent and our guide (Ruben) was so knowledgeable, charismatic and didn't draw breath for the two hours we were on the boat.

Jim Jim Falls is 4WD access only. The 50km dirt road is well graded, however if there is a car in front of you or a steady stream of passing traffic, the dust makes it a slow trip and it can take up to 2 hours just to get to the Jim Jim Falls car park. 

From the car park it is a 2km return walk to the plunge pool. The walk is quite difficult, with slippery boulders to traverse, however taken slowly the white sandy beach and swim are well worth the effort. 

Moving on from Cooinda towards Katherine our last stop in Kakadu was Gunlom. Gunlom is in the Mary River Region and is popular with campers as it is located near the crystal clear plunge pool and waterfall. It is a 2km return steep climb up to the infinity pool. I would say the Jim Jim Falls walk is harder, however this is much steeper. A well contoured path and stairway is currently being constructed, which will make the walk much easier.

Nitmiluk National Park

Leaving Kakadu behind us we made our way to Katherine via Pine Creek. Pine Creek is a small town created to service the Overland Telegraph Line in 1870. Over the years it has experienced a variety of gold rushes, however today it relies on tourism and those interested in the Northern Railway (1889-1976).

Between Pine Creek and Katherine is Leliyn or Edith Falls. There is a large pool at the base of the falls and it is a favoured picnic stop for those travelling the Stuart Highway. 

Katherine is where the outback meets the tropics. It is the fourth largest settlement in the Territory and a tourism gateway to the attractions of Nitmiluk National Park, in particular the Katherine Gorge.

Nitmiluk is cicada country and home of to the Jawoyn people. Unlike Kakadu, they have five different seasons.

We stayed at Cicada Lodge. Located inside the Nitmiluk National Park, Cicada Lodge was a really lovely way to spend the last two nights of our visit to the Top End. We booked our stay well in advance, as there are only 18 rooms and we were travelling during school holidays. Breakfast, evening drinks and canapes were included in our stay and we enjoyed the set three course meal on one occasion. 

Cicada Lodge from the air

A series of 13 gorges sculpted from the sandstone bedrock over the millennia by the Katherine River, Nitmiluk offers a series of walks in order for you to explore the Katherine Gorge system and surrounding escarpment. The Baruwei Loop is a 1.8km or longer 4.8km return walk. All other walks are for well equipped hikers.

Boat and cultural tours are available to take you up the river and experience the gorge and canoes can be hired so you can explore an swim in your own time. Cutta Cutta Caves are also popular with tourists. 

We experienced the Katherine Gorge by helicopter. Nitmiluk Scenic Flights offer several different flight packages. We chose the 8 Gorge Flight. 

ELSY NATIONAL PARK

100km south of Katherine is Mataranka township and Elsy National Park. Located on the upper reaches of the Roper River, Mataranka is known as the 'Capital of the Never Never'. Renowned for its sandy-bottomed thermal pools, the town mostly services outlying cattle stations.

In the late 1890's Jeannie Gunn met and married Aeneas James Gunn and moved to Elsy Station. Fifteen months later Aeneas died and Jeannie returned to her home town of Melbourne, where she wrote the well reknowned novel 'We of the Never Never'. In 1982 the book was made into a movie and a replica of the Elsy Homestead was constructed with every detail duplicated. The homestead is open daily and free to enter.

Mataranka Thermal Pool was dedicated as a reserve in 1967. Hidden among the palm forest, the pool is at a constant 34°c and flows from Rainbow Springs at 30.5 million litres a day.

Just north of the Mataranka township is Bitter Springs Thermal Pool. Just like Mataranka Thermal Pool, Bitter Springs has a slight current so you can drift from one end to there other. There is a short loop walk to take you back to the start, so you can drift the day away.

Our last night in the Top End and we had a fantastic experience at Marksie's Stockman's Camp Tucker. Kicking off at 7pm, Marksie greeted us and told us a little about himself, his staff and what to expect from the evening. Marrying Indigenous and white cultures through his stories and food, we were served a hearty meal of stockmans beef stew (cooked using bush herbs) accompanied by damper and a BYO bottle of red.

Marksie is good for a yarn

Cicada Lodge is a good four hour drive from Darwin, so we were up early in order to catch our flights. Litchfield National Park is located along the Stuart Highway. We have previously visited Litchfield and would definitely go back again. If you don't have time to get to Kakadu from Darwin, then a day trip to Litchfield is a must. The walks and gorges are spectacular.

We really enjoyed our trip to Australia's Top End. I would love to do it again just after the wet season in order to experience the ever changing landscape. All up we travelled 2,424km!