POSITANO, ITALY
GETTING THERE & AROUND
From Perth, Western Australia, Italy is a long way to go for some sunshine. However, friends of ours have been visiting Positano for the past decade, so we decided it was time to see what all the fuss was about.
From Perth, we took the direct Qantas Dreamliner flight to Rome, which departs around 7.00pm (AWST). After approximately 16 hours in the air, you land in Rome at roughly 6.00am (CEST), feeling surprisingly human for such a long haul.
The Leonardo Express from Rome airport to Rome Termini (Central) takes around 30-minutes and from there you can escape to any destination in Europe. Tickets can be pre-booked or purchased at the airport. I use the Trainline app when booking train travel - it's convenient, especially when taking multiple trips, as all your tickets are stored in one place.
Train strikes are relatively common in Italy and can cause significant travel disruption. It’s wise to keep an eye on strike announcements in advance of your journey.
Positano lies in southern Italy, perched dramatically on the Amalfi Coast. There are several ways to reach this waterfront gem, including a combination of train and ferry, train and bus, private transfer, or self-drive—although I personally think hiring a car on the Amalfi Coast is madness!
We chose the scenic and relaxing route: a high-speed train to Salerno, followed by a ferry to Positano via Amalfi. Salerno’s train station is just a five-minute walk from the port, making the transfer seamless. While ferry schedules are somewhat limited, Ferryscanner is a useful tool for comparing operators and departure times. We pre-booked our tickets (including luggage) through the Travelmar website, although it’s also possible to purchase tickets directly at the port.
If you haven’t been to Positano before, you’re in for a surprise. In summer, the waterfront is hectic. Ferries constantly arrive and depart alongside private boat tenders, restaurant shuttles, and crowds of day-trippers trying to figure out their next move. If you're travelling with luggage, the best way to get it to your accommodation is by using a Positano Porter. They’ll meet you at the dock and transport your bags up the steep, winding paths—saving you both time and energy.
Once you arrive in Positano, your legs quickly become your best friend. With its steep terrain, countless stairs, and winding alleys, wearing appropriate footwear is essential—because however far you go up, you’ll have to come back down! In summer, the combination of heat and crowds makes getting around even more demanding. Most paths are cobblestone, and the roads are narrow, often without footpaths, meaning you'll find yourself sharing the space with parked cars, buses, motor scooters, and a whole lot of chaos. It’s beautiful—but manic.
If you're tempted to take the quieter back paths, be prepared for stair after stair—so make sure your knees (and your kids!) can handle the climb. Strollers are impractical, and taxis are both in high demand and notoriously expensive. The local SITA bus connects towns along the Amalfi Coast, while the Interno Positano bus services the village itself. Tickets are available at local Tabacchi shops, but be warned: queues can be long, and shade is in short supply.
ACCOMMODATION
Accommodation in Positano ranges from jaw-dropping luxury to modest budget stays—but expect to pay a premium for that postcard-perfect view. Iconic hotels like Il San Pietro di Positano, Le Sirenuse, and Villa Treville offer world-class service, cliffside pools, and panoramic terraces—ideal if you're splurging on a once-in-a-lifetime stay. For those after comfort without the five-star price tag, mid-range hotels such as Hotel Marincanto, Palazzo Murat, and Hotel Savoia deliver charm, sea views, and a central location.
Wild camping or sleeping rough in Positano is illegal and strictly enforced. All overnight visitors must stay in formal accommodation and pay the local imposta di soggiorno (tourist tax), which varies depending on the hotel’s star rating. This tax is charged per person, per night, and collected by your accommodation provider. No matter where you stay, Positano’s breathtaking setting makes it an unforgettable base—just be sure to secure your booking early, especially in peak season.
We stayed at La Fenice Bed and Breakfast, a charming, family-run retreat perched on the cliffside about a 10-minute walk from the centre of Positano at Positano Farm. What sets it apart is not only its fabulous saltwater pool but also its own private beach—a rarity in this part of the coast. Be warned, though: reaching either requires navigating a serious number of steps. Even for the fit, it’s a workout—but well worth the effort for the seclusion and stunning views.
FOOD & SHOPPING
If you’re a foodie or a shopper, Positano won’t disappoint. The town is brimming with boutiques, wine bars, cafés, and restaurants, offering everything from high-end dining to laid-back local favourites. Prices vary dramatically depending on where you are—expect premium prices along the waterfront, while venturing higher up the hillside often rewards you with better value and a more local feel. Lemons, the iconic fruit of Positano, are everywhere—featured in everything from ceramics to cocktails, desserts, and of course, limoncello.
For shoppers, Positano is a dream. Local boutiques showcase beautiful handmade sandals, breezy linen clothing, and hand-painted ceramics—all proudly made in the region. If you prefer to dine simply or picnic in a shady corner, there are plenty of well-stocked grocery stores, bakeries, and delis scattered through town. And of course, no day in Positano is complete without stopping at one of its many gelaterias for a scoop (or two) of creamy gelato.
Once the daily tourists departed, we would venture into town for dinner. We had some fabulous and memorable meals at:
During peak season, it’s highly recommended to book restaurants in advance to avoid disappointment. Reservations can be made online, by calling ahead, or through your hotel concierge—who will often have the inside scoop on the best spots. Some restaurants are tucked away in the hills or along the coast and offer a dedicated transfer service. One iconic example is Da Adolfo, a rustic beachfront favourite that’s only open for lunch and accessed via its own private boat from the main Positano ferry wharf—just look for the red fish flag.
ATTRACTIONS IN AND AROUND POSITANO
Tucked just beneath the Church of Santa Maria Assunta is one of Positano’s most unexpected treasures—MAR Positano, the town’s archaeological museum. Discovered during restoration works in 2003, this Roman villa had been buried for nearly two thousand years under layers of ash from the eruption of Vesuvius in 79 AD. It offers a fascinating glimpse into the lavish life once lived here, complete with beautifully preserved frescoes and mosaics.
What makes the experience even more remarkable is how seamlessly it’s been integrated into the modern-day church above. You walk on a glass platform suspended above ancient rooms—once part of a Roman dining area—taking in the colours, detail, and sheer scale of this underground world. There are also crypts and displays that reveal the many layers of Positano’s history. It’s cool, quiet, and utterly captivating—a must if you need a little break from the beach and want to connect with the town’s rich past.
PATH OF THE GODS (SENTIERO DEGLI DEI)
If you’re up for a bit of adventure and some of the most breathtaking views along the Amalfi Coast, then the Path of the Gods (Sentiero degli Dei) is an absolute must. This scenic trail begins in the little village of Bomerano and winds its way along the cliffs for about 5.5km, finishing in Nocelle, just above Positano. It’s not a technical hike, but there are a few rocky sections, so you’ll want decent shoes and a reasonable level of fitness.
We arrived in Bomerano (by private transfer from Positano) around 7:30am, which gave us time to enjoy a quick coffee in the village before setting off just before 8:00am—an ideal time to start, especially during the warmer months. The walk takes about 2.5 hours, and by 10:00am the sun is already strong. There aren't many welcome stops or water refill points on the trail, so make sure you’re prepared before you set off.
You can reach Bomerano by public transport, but keep in mind the timing. The first ferry from Positano to Amalfi usually departs around 7.00am, and the connecting SITA bus from Amalfi to Bomerano (line 5080) departs at 8:05am—so unless you’re staying in Amalfi or catching the earliest ferry, you won't be starting the hike until 9.00am or later, when it’s hotter and busier.
Once you reach Nocelle, you’re rewarded not only with spectacular views but also a refreshing stop at the Lemon Point—a cheerful little spot serving icy lemon granitas, which taste even better after a long walk. From there, you can either descend the 1,700 steps to the main road towards Positano (a challenge in itself!) or catch the local bus if your legs have had enough. Either way, it’s a memorable and exhilarating way to take in the dramatic beauty of the Amalfi Coast.
RAVELLO
If you want a break from the crowds on the Amalfi Coast, a day trip to Ravello is a great option. Sitting above Amalfi, this small town has a long history and some of the best views you’ll find in the region.
One of the main attractions is Villa Rufolo, built in the 13th century and once one of the grandest villas on the coast. After years of neglect, it was bought by Scottish botanist Sir Francis Neville Reid, who restored the villa and gardens. It’s now open to the public and hosts the Ravello Festival each July/August, with concerts set against the backdrop of the Amalfi Coast.
We travelled by ferry from Positano to Amalfi, then caught the SITA bus up to Ravello. The road winds up the hillside, but the ride is short and the views at the top make it well worth the trip.Looking for a bit of adventure, we decided to walk from Ravello to Atrani via the Scala Centro–Pontone–Amalfi track. From Pontone, we took a detour down through the Valley of Dragone, a scenic but at times steep and uneven path. It was hot and a little challenging in parts, but we made it to Atrani in one piece—just in time for pizza and piña coladas in the piazza. After a well-earned break, we continued on to Amalfi and caught the ferry back to Positano.
There’s no shortage of things to do on the Amalfi Coast. You can take a day trip to Capri and visit the famous Blue Grotto, hire a boat for the day and cruise to the Emerald Grotto near Amalfi, or keep it simple by booking a beach lounge and having drinks brought to you while you soak up the sun. Whatever pace you’re after, Positano has you covered.
POMPEII & HERCULANEUM
Pompeii had long been on my bucket list, so staying in Positano gave us the perfect chance to take a day trip to both Pompeii and the lesser-known ruins of Herculaneum. With the help of Aldo Limos, we arranged a private transfer, an expert guide, and a winery lunch. You can read more about our day trip here.
QC TERMEROMA SPA HOTEL
We returned to Rome via Naples by train, with the high-speed service getting us to Rome Termini in just over an hour, then on to the airport. With one night to spare before our long-haul flight back to Perth, we checked into QC Termeroma—just 10 minutes from Fiumicino Airport. Tucked away in the quiet Fiumicino countryside, this spa hotel feels like a true escape. With beautiful wellness spaces, saunas, steam rooms, and outdoor pools surrounded by parkland, it was the perfect place to unwind before the 16-hour flight home. A peaceful end to an unforgettable trip.
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