FIRST TIME, SIX DAYS.... GO, GO, GO!
1 - 6 JULY 2022
There's something about New York that makes it a bucket list destination. So when my daughter said she was taking a week off and spending it in New York, I booked my flight.
The best way to get to New York from Western Australia is via Singapore. The direct Singapore Airways flight to JFK takes just under 19 hours. The flight is an all business and premium economy class flight, making it a little more expensive, but eliminating an extra stopover.
Singapore (Changi) airport is still an in-transit superhighway and apart from everyone wearing a mask, you wouldn't know we had been through a pandemic. There is still plenty to do, see and experience. Many of the lounge areas have been upgraded and attractions such as the butterfly garden are still some of the highlights.
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| Changi Airport Butterfly Garden in Terminal 1 |
Arriving at JFK, I passed through customs and caught a taxi to the city. Meeting up with my daughter, we reached the Loopy Doopy Rooftop Bar at the Conrad Hotel just in time to watch the sunset over Jersey City.
We chose to stay at the AKA Central Park in a studio room. It was really well located on West 58th Street between 5th and 6th Avenues and a street back from Central Park. The room was quiet with good air-conditioning. Very important in a city that never sleeps during summer.
The United Nations Headquarters is located mid-town on the East River. The International Organisation was founded in 1945 and is currently made up of 193 Member States. It is here that all the world's nations can gather to discuss common problems and find shared solutions to benefit all of humanity. Informative guided tours explain the structure of the United Nations and discuss the responsibilities of each of the main parts: the General Assembly, Security Council, the Economic and Social Council, the Trusteeship Council, the International Court of Justice and the UN Secretariat.
The Metropolitan Museum of Art (The MET) is located on Fifth Avenue. Tickets can be purchased online in advance or on arrival. There are heaps to see and do at the Museum, so plan to be there for a couple of hours. If you need a break from all the art, then escape to the Cantor Roof Garden on Floor 5 for views across Central Park. To get there take the Floor 1 elevator in European Sculpture and Decorative Arts - Gallery 555.
Staying up near Central Park ultimately means you spend a lot of time walking down Fifth Avenue being tempted by the high-end retail stores such as Louis Vuitton, Tiffany & Co, Bergdorf Goodman and of course the famous department store - Saks Fifth Avenue. However, it's not all glitz and glam, you will also find H&M, Lululemon, Banana Republic and the very popular LEGO store.
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| Saks Fifth Avenue |
Both avenues will lead you past the Rockefeller Centre and on to one of the prettiest parks in New York, Bryant Park. Located behind the Stephen A Schwarzman, New York Public Library, the park is one of the busiest public spaces in the world and boasts some of the cleanest, privately funded public toilets. During the summer months, the park offers free concerts and movies and each autumn the lawn is transformed into a free ice-skating rink.
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| Rockefeller Plaza |
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| The library is free to enter, however you can only access the reading room on the free tour |
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| Byrant Park has the 3rd cleanest public toilets in the USA Don't forget to leave a tip 😇 |
From the outside Grand Central Terminal gets a little lost in amongst the New York City skyscrapers, however once inside you are transported to another era and suddenly feel like you want to be part of a dancing flash mob. It is one of the most beautiful public spaces I have ever been in and you don't have to be catching a train to enjoy it. The Whispering Wall located outside the Oyster Bar Restaurant on the lower level of the terminal is fun.
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| The Whispering Wall The acoustic oddity caused by the perfect arches allows for the corner-to-corner whispering gallery |
The redevelopment of Hudson Yards on Manhattan's west side includes the Vessel as its star attraction. The spiral staircase comprises of 154 interconnecting flights of stairs, with views over the river and beyond. Unfortunately, the landmark has been closed since 2019 after a fourth person died after jumping off the structure. From the ground, it still looks remarkable and is conveniently located at the start/end of the High Line.
Part of the public parks program, the High Line is built on an historic elevated rail line. Walking the entire High Line takes around 30 minutes (approx. 2.5km). There are plenty of events, public art instalments, food options and garden programs, so be sure to check the website for details.
The iconic culinary destination that is Chelsea Markets can be accessed from the High Line. We visited on a Saturday, so it was full of locals and tourists meeting, eating and shopping.
After a quick snack, we walked over to the new public park Little Island. The artificial island park is in the Meatpacking District and is supported by 132 pot-shaped "tulips" suspended above the water. Open to the public, paths wind around green rolling hills and lush landscapes with views over the Hudson.
Escaping the heat and in need of a little luxury retail therapy, we found ourselves at Restoration Hardware on 9th Avenue. Okay, so its not your usual tourist destination, but there is a rooftop garden bar and restaurant where reservations are highly recommended. If you don't feel like eating or if you can't get a booking, then just enjoy the elegant furniture and lighting.
Washington Square Park was where we found local New Yorkers spending their Saturday afternoon catching up with friends for coffee, a chat and even a game of chess. It is a lovely social space with a fountain and marble arch.
SoHo is a vibrant, arty neighbourhood with trendy boutiques, art galleries and amazing architecture. You could easily spend a day here.
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| The cast-iron architecture of SoHo |
Italian restaurants line either side of Mulberry Street in Nolita or Little Italy. Since Covid, outdoor eating has been introduced allowing restaurants to spill out into the streets creating an inviting atmosphere.
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| Mulberry St, Little Italy |
I love the hop-on hop-off bus, but for some reason New York just doesn't seem like the place to ride one. There is so much traffic, that I feel walking and the subway are a better option for getting around. Having said that, we did enjoy The Ride. The 75 minute theatrical experiences starts between 42nd and 8th Streets, just around the corner from Times Square. The panoramic window enables all passengers to view the buzz of New York from stadium style seating. The tour guides are hilarious and along the way you not only learn about some of the city's famous landmarks (ie: Chrysler Building, Carnegie Hall and Columbus Circle), you are also entertained by a variety of performers dotted along the route. The bus rattles and shakes and from behind your mask you get to belt out Frank Sinatra's New York, New York!
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| Times Square |
Daylight savings in New York means it doesn't get dark until around 8.30pm. Therefore, getting high above the buildings is the best way to experience the sunset. We enjoyed cocktails at Dear Irving on Hudson.
The 9/11 Memorial & Museum is in the Financial District or Findi. Open six days per week, you can book tickets online or at the Museum for a timed entry. Just seeing the memorial brings back the memories of the day, where we were and what we were doing. The museum itself is a tearful reminder of the lives lost, however the way it is presented is excellent and well worth the visit.
From 9/11 we walked through the Oculus and over to the New York Stock Exchange in Wall Street and on to see the famous Charging Bull Statue. From there it was just across the road to Battery Park and Whitehall Terminal where we caught the Staten Island Ferry.
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| The New York Stock Exchange |
The Staten Island Ferry is a FREE service that runs between Manhattan and Staten Island. Running 24 hours per day, 7 days a week the round trip takes about an hour and is the cheapest way to see the Statue of Liberty. Unless you want to specifically visit Liberty Island and/or Ellis Island (where you will find the National Immigration Museum), then this option is for you.
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| The Statue of Liberty This photo was taken from the Staten Island Ferry |
New York's Lower East Side is traditionally an immigrant, working class neighbourhood. Once the third largest German speaking community in the world, today it is predominately a Puerto Rican and Dominican community. It is also the epicentre for Jewish immigrant culture and it is here you will find stalwart delicatessens such as Katz and Russ & Daughters. Tourists and locals queue for hours at both of these deli's, so if you want to try one of the famous pastrami sandwiches or smoked salmon bagels, then get there early.
Stuyvesant Town or StuyTown comprises of 110 red brick apartment buildings and was planned as a post-war housing project. Today, it is its own city within a city offering a close community hub with restaurants, shops and its very own newspaper.
McSorely's Old Ale House was established in 1854 and is America's oldest continually operated bar. Even during prohibition, the bar continued to operate serving beer that was brewed in the basement. It was the last ale house to allow women through its doors and the walls of the cash only premises are adorned with history. The chair that Abraham Lincoln sat in is on display and the cheese and crackers are still served with slices of raw onion, keeping up McSorely's philosophy of "Good Ale, Raw Onions...".
Getting a view of Manhattan from above is a must. Currently there are five observation decks: the Empire State Building, Top of the Rock, One World Observatory, the Edge and SUMMIT One Vanderbilt. No matter which one you choose, the views of the concrete jungle below are amazing.
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| Views over Central Park from the Top of the Rock |
The Flatiron District is named after the wedge shaped building at 23rd Street, Broadway and Fifth Avenue. Unfortunately, it was under scaffold when we visited, however we had an amazing dinner at ilili.
Fourth of July - Independence Day and there was no better way to start the day then hire bikes and cycle around Central Park. Citibikes are available on most corners, however, make sure you understand the terms and conditions of hire. You may be easily caught out by the time constraints. Alternatively, there are bike hire stores located close to Central Park and spruikers on the street encouraging you to hire from them. The one-way cycle and running path is around 10km and takes about an hour to circumnavigate.
Returning our bikes, we then visited the park on foot in order to visit attractions such as: Strawberry Fields, Belvedere Castle, Bethesda Terrace and Fountain, Bow Bridge and The Mall. The park is so large, you couldn't possibly see everything in one day.
New Yorkers will plan their weekend around brunch and since it was a public holiday, why not do what the locals do? We enjoyed french toast and peach bellini's at Refinery Rooftop, before wandering back through the city via New York's Forth of July sponsor Macy's Department Store.
This year, five barges on the East River let off 96,000 fireworks for the Macy's Fourth of July celebration. The show was spectacular with vantage points running the length of FDR Drive. There are heaps of expensive private cruises and functions offering cocktails and canapes whilst watching the fireworks, alternatively you can find a spot along the river and enjoy the display for free.
New York is made up of five boroughs: The Bronx, Brooklyn, Manhattan, Queens and Staten Island. Brooklyn is definitely the City's most popular as it houses Coney Island, Prospect Park and jaw dropping views of Manhattan from the scenic Brooklyn Heights Promenade.
The iconic Brooklyn Bridge connects Lower Manhattan and Brooklyn Heights. With six lanes of vehicles and a shared bike and pedestrian path, the once longest suspension bridge in the world and National Historic Landmark is magnificent. The 2km walk takes about 25 minutes, more if you are continuously taking photos. Some say it is better to walk towards Manhattan so you can see the Manhattan skyline, however no matter which way you go the walk is dazzling.
Exiting the bridge on the Brooklyn side and following the signs to Dumbo is where you will get 'that shot' of the Williamsburg Bridge photo at the intersection of Washington and Water Streets.
Hungry and dying for a coffee, the Time Out Market in Water Street is the place to go. Full of eateries, the market has art installations and best of all a fifth-floor rooftop.
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| How spoilt were we to have the view and rooftop to ourselves |
From Dumbo we walked and walked and walked and ended up at the Brooklyn Crab in the Red Hook District for lunch. Yummy lobster rolls washed down with a Pina colada and we caught an uber back to Williamsburg where there are many restored buildings, high-rises and street art. The two hour Best of Brooklyn Walking Tour departs 548 Driggs Avenue, Brooklyn every day at 3.00pm.
The East River Ferry will get you back to Manhattan departing from North Williamsburg and arriving at the East 34th St Pier.
Our last night in New York and what better way to spend it than treating ourselves in a New York Steakhouse. Steakhouses are a big part of New York's culinary history and although meat consumption has declined, the traditional steakhouse continues to dominate the fine dining arena. We had a delicious New York Strip at Porter House Bar & Grill. It was the perfect way to end an incredible holiday.
New York is like an onion; every time you visit you peel off another layer. We were walking 15-20km a day and still there is so much more to see and do. After I said goodbye to my daughter, I wandered back through Central Park towards the Museum of Natural History only to find myself lost and dawdling down Madison Avenue. Not a bad way to spend my last couple of hours, although by then the summer heat had intensified and humidity increased.
".... concrete jungle where dreams are made...."
NOTES:
US ENTRY VISA
All visitors to the United States are required to have a valid visitors visa. Apply for your ESTA (Electronic System for Travel Authorisation) online prior to departure from the official website. Third party websites will charge an unnecessary administration fee.
ARRIVAL & CUSTOMS
Depending on your flight arrival time, may determine how many staff are operating the customs booths. My flight arrived in the early evening, so there were only around half a dozen booths open to non-US passport holders. It took me just under two hours to clear customs, collect my bag and head to the taxi rank. There is a clock that tells you the expected wait time, so if you need to go to the bathroom, then do so before you join the queue as you could be there for quite a while. JFK offers free wifi so you can check your social media and/or carry a book in your hand luggage 😉.
GETTING FROM JFK TO NEW YORK CITY
Taxi's are the easiest way to travel from JFK to Manhattan. They charge a flat rate to/from the airport, so confirm the price prior to departure. Taxi's accept credit cards or cash. Uber's are also available via the Uber app.
TIPPING
One of the scariest things about the US is the tipping system. Covid has made it slightly easier as a lot of venues have gone cashless, therefore a suggested tip is printed on the bottom of your bill, or you can just push the appropriate button on the EFTPOS machine. However, carrying some $1 and $5 notes is advised for tipping the doorman, cleaner or barman.
GETTING AROUND
- Be prepared to walk for miles and miles. It is a fabulous city to discover on foot.
- Subway - the subway is a fantastic way to travel and you can just tap your mobile pay or contactless card for entry. No ticket required! Trains in Manhattan mostly run uptown or downtown, 24 hours per day.
- Taxi/Uber - The iconic yellow cabs of New York can be easily hailed from the sidewalk. However, Ubers are cheaper and often more reliable.
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