ANTARCTICA WITH SILVERSEAS
Antarctica sits high on many bucket lists — the seventh continent and one of the most remote places on Earth. For us, it became a once-in-a-lifetime journey, and one we feel incredibly fortunate to have taken.
Planning started more than a year in advance. Berths are limited and sell out quickly, so timing matters. We also placed a bid for a cabin upgrade, which was unexpectedly successful. The result was not just the chance to visit Antarctica, but to do so with a level of comfort that made an already remarkable trip even better.
Getting to Antarctica from Perth is no small undertaking. We flew from Perth to Sydney, spending a couple of days there before boarding the direct Qantas flight from Sydney to Santiago. Departing around midday, the 14-hour flight delivered us into Chile mid-morning the same day, thanks to the time difference.
SANTIAGO
The approach into Santiago is impressive. The city sits in a basin, framed by the Andes to the east and the coastal mountain range to the west — a striking first glimpse of Chile, arriving over the central valley that feeds much of the country — ordered farmland, open space and a quality of light that felt unexpectedly similar to Perth.
Entering Chile is relatively straightforward. While some nationalities require an eVisa, passport holders from Australia, Canada, the United States and the European Union can enter visa-free for tourism purposes.
All travellers entering Chile must complete the online Digital Affidavit for Entry to Chile within 48 hours of arrival. At passport control, you’ll be issued with a Tarjeta Única Migratoria (TUM) — either electronically or as a paper slip. Check the details carefully and keep it safe, as it’s required when leaving Chile.
Santiago Airport is located around 30 minutes from the city centre, depending on traffic. The safest way to reach your accommodation is via an official airport taxi or transfer service. After clearing customs and entering the arrivals hall, you’ll see several authorised transport counters where you can pre-pay a fixed fare and be allocated a driver.
It’s best to avoid hailing taxis outside the terminal, as overcharging is common. Ride-share services such as Uber operate in Chile but have restricted access at the airport due to local regulations, which can make pick-ups unreliable. For this reason, stick to official airport transport services for travel to and from Santiago Airport.
Once in Santiago, we were firmly in Silversea’s care. We stayed at the Ritz-Carlton, checked in via the Silversea desk, and headed out to explore the city for the afternoon.
Within the city, ride-share services proved to be the easiest way to get around. Keen to sample Chile’s food and wine, we made our way to the Mercado Central de Santiago (Central Market). In hindsight, it wasn’t our best decision. Despite being aware that some central areas attract pickpockets, I underestimated how brazen it could be — my necklace was pulled straight from my neck. A sharp reminder to stay alert in busy tourist spots, even in broad daylight.
From there, we visited the Museum of Memory & Human Rights. Free to enter, the museum focuses on Chile’s recent history, documenting the human rights violations that occurred between 1973 and 1990. The exhibits use photographs, archival material and personal accounts to provide context to this period, making it a worthwhile and informative stop when exploring Santiago.
Although we didn’t have time to visit, one of Santiago’s standout attractions is the historic funicular and cable car at Cerro San Cristóbal. The funicular climbs from the Bellavista neighbourhood up the hillside, while the cable car runs across the park and down the opposite side, offering wide views over the city and the Andes. The two can be linked as a single experience, making it an easy and scenic way to explore the area without backtracking.
We had dinner at Osaka, in the upmarket Las Condes area of Santiago. The restaurant is known for its Nikkei cuisine — a Japanese–Peruvian style that has gained a strong following in Chile.
Chile has a small but long-established Japanese community, dating back to the late 19th and early 20th centuries. Combined with Chile’s exceptional seafood and the influence of neighbouring Peru, this has helped drive the popularity of Japanese and Japanese-fusion restaurants across Santiago, particularly in its more affluent neighbourhoods.
On our return through Santiago, we stayed in the Lastarria neighbourhood at Hotel Magnolia. Set in a heritage building that’s been carefully renovated, it offered a very different experience to our earlier stay at the Ritz-Carlton — less polished and more local, with the city very much on your doorstep.
Lastarria is one of Santiago’s more lively and creative neighbourhoods, known for its galleries, cafés and strong food scene. Staying locally made it easy to step straight out for the evening. We had drinks at Bocanáriz, a favourite for Chilean wines, before heading next door for dinner at Chipe Libre, which focuses on pisco-led drinks and casual dining. Visiting on a Saturday added to the atmosphere, with local markets in full swing and street buskers bringing extra energy to the area.
The hotel is also just a short walk from Cerro Santa Lucía, where paths lead up to the historic fortifications and wide views across central Santiago.
PUENTA ARENAS
Silversea had hoped to have its purpose-built hotel, The Cormorant at 55 South, open by January 2026. Had it been ready, guests would have bypassed Punta Arenas altogether and flown directly into Puerto Williams before continuing on to Antarctica.
As the hotel wasn’t quite ready to receive guests, Silversea instead chartered flights to Punta Arenas, one of the main access points to southern Patagonia and a long-established hub for Antarctic departures. We stayed overnight at the Dreams Hotel before continuing on to King George Island.
Punta Arenas is located on the Strait of Magellan, a naturally sheltered waterway that long provided a safer passage and reliable anchorage compared with the open seas around Cape Horn. Before the opening of the Panama Canal, much of the maritime traffic travelling between the Atlantic and Pacific oceans passed through this region. Punta Arenas grew prosperous during this period, built on the wealth generated by shipping and later by the livestock industry.
That prosperity is still visible today, with elegant historic buildings lining the streets around the main square. The compact centre is easy to explore on foot, and a self-guided walking tour offers a good introduction to the city’s past. Today, Punta Arenas primarily functions as a hub for Patagonia and Antarctic tourism, with many expeditions beginning or passing through the city.
ANTARCTICA
Flying to Antarctica is all about timing. King George Island is around a two-hour flight from Punta Arenas, but landing is entirely weather dependent, with visibility needing to be near-perfect for aircraft to touch down.
We were extremely fortunate. Our charter flight departed at 6.30am and by 9.00am we were boarding the ship. The swap-over of outgoing guests from the previous cruise meant cabins weren’t available until later in the afternoon, but after what felt like days of travelling, it was simply a relief to have finally arrived.
King George Island is one of the few places in Antarctica with a permanent human presence. Several international research stations are based here, operated by countries including Chile, Russia, China, South Korea and Uruguay. Its airstrip and relative accessibility make it a key logistical gateway to the Antarctic Peninsula, although it remains very much part of Antarctica’s protected environment.
Strict environmental protocols apply from the moment you arrive. Nothing can be placed directly on the ground, and all visitors must wear biosecurity-clean boots and approved outer layers to prevent the introduction of foreign organisms. These are supplied by Silversea and form part of the broader conservation measures that all Antarctic operators are required to follow.
Visitor numbers are tightly controlled. Under guidelines set by the International Association of Antarctica Tour Operators (IAATO), no more than 100 passengers are allowed ashore at any one time. Ships carefully coordinate landings and anchorage positions, and during peak season vessels effectively queue offshore, timing arrivals and departures to minimise environmental impact.
Our home for the week was Silverseas Silver Wind. Purpose-built for expedition cruising, the ship strikes a balance between comfort and capability. Accommodating around 240 guests and supported by a crew of approximately 250 staff, everything onboard ran smoothly throughout the voyage.
The six-day return voyage began at King George Island, travelling south through the Antarctic Sound, along the Antarctic Peninsula, and around the South Shetland Islands, before returning to King George Island.
Days were structured but varied. Expedition cruising offers constant options — guided hikes, zodiac landings, kayaking and wildlife-focused excursions — all led by an experienced expedition team. Their combined knowledge of the continent added valuable context to every landing and lecture, turning each day into more than just sightseeing.
Icebergs are vast and constant, but it’s the wildlife that stands out most in Antarctica. Penguins are the dominant species, with large colonies of Gentoo, Chinstrap and Adélie penguins creating near-constant noise and a smell that lingers long after you leave the colonies.
Weddell seals were frequently seen resting on beaches and ice floes, while a juvenile elephant seal lay basking as we kayaked past. A leopard seal feeding on its prey was a confronting but memorable sight, and whales regularly surfaced and breached in the bays. Some travellers were also lucky enough to spot orcas moving through the area.
The scenery is consistently impressive, but no two days are the same. Weather, wind and swell dictate everything in Antarctica. We experienced a mix of conditions — several clear, sunny days alongside others that were overcast and blizzard-like.
One popular onboard event was the polar plunge, with 93 passengers choosing to take part. The water temperature hovered around –2°C, and participants were secured with a safety harness — a brief but bracing experience by all accounts
Only one day was completely weathered out, preventing us from landing. Onboard, the expedition team filled the gap with talks and activities, including an engaging lecture on penguins by kayak expedition leader Nahuel, which proved to be a highlight in its own right.
