ROWLEY SHOALS -
A CORAL ATOLL WEST OF BROOME
SEPTEMBER 2025
Taking a boat ride 13 hours and 260km direct west of Broome, you wouldn't think you were still in Australia, nor would you think there was a coral oasis with calm lagoons where you could moor a luxury cruiser for a week. It's unexpected, it's remote, and it feels like another world.
From Perth we flew to Broome and had a leisurely morning on Cable Beach, catching up with our interstate brood who were joining us for the adventure. After a bite to eat and a quick change, a courtesy bus collected us and delivered us to what would be our home for the week: the True North.
Once onboard, we were welcomed with cocktails and canapés, introduced to the crew, and shown to our berths. After a safety briefing and dinner, the True North slipped away from Broome and began the overnight journey to the Rowley Shoals.
Not everyone made it through the first meal — some wisely took seasick medication and headed straight for bed, while others lingered a little longer. But before too long the swell made its presence felt and bed became the only sensible option. The crossing is not for the faint-hearted.
By sunrise, though, the reward was clear: the boat eased into the sheltered waters of Clerke Reef lagoon, where the sea was calm and the atoll stretched out in every direction.
The Rowley Shoals Marine Park is made up of three pristine coral atolls — Clerke Reef, Imperieuse Reef and Mermaid Reef. Each is teeming with marine life, including species found nowhere else in the world. Snorkelling and diving here reveal coral gardens, vibrant fish, and waters so clear it feels like you’re floating in a natural aquarium.
Unfortunately, during the 2024/25 season the reefs experienced a significant marine heatwave, causing widespread coral bleaching across Western Australia. The result was coral that lacked much of its usual vibrancy and colour.
Yet, even in this altered state, the reefs still held their magic. The marine life remained as spectacular as ever — schools of brilliantly coloured fish, curious reef sharks, and graceful turtles weaving through the atoll.
One of the standout experiences was drift snorkelling on the outgoing tide. The current swept us along at around four knots, with turtles gliding nearby, jellyfish pulsing gently in the water, and a kaleidoscope of other marine life all around. Our second drift was faster as the tide dropped quickly, the current picked up, and coral heads began to break the surface.
Each evening, the crew provided an itinerary outlining the next day’s activities. Options ranged from snorkelling, diving and fishing to a trip across to Bedwell Island, where you could swim straight off the beach or stretch your legs with a leisurely walk.
Bedwell Island is little more than a bare sand cay, rising only about two metres above sea level. Despite its size, it supports a thriving colony of red-tailed tropicbirds, which nest there year-round. To help protect them from the harsh conditions, small man-made shelters are scattered across the island, providing cover and security for the birds.
The Rowley Shoals sit on the outer edge of Australia’s continental shelf and are renowned for game fishing. Pelagic species commonly caught here include mackerel, wahoo, sailfish, mahi mahi and yellowfin tuna. For those lucky enough to hook a sailfish, the thrill was unforgettable, while freshly caught wahoo and tuna made a welcome addition to the chef’s menu onboard.
Evenings on the True North often began with sunset drinks on deck, shared with the crew, followed by after-dinner talks on marine life — complete with light-hearted quizzes to test what we’d learned.
Dining was another highlight. Every meal was consistently excellent, and the chef’s ability to deliver such variety and quality from a compact galley was nothing short of impressive.
Our week finished with another overnight crossing before waking to the sight of Broome’s Cable Beach. The coral had lost some of its vibrancy, but the crew and company more than made up for it.