WILD, WILDFLOWER WEST
September 2024
Western Australia is renowned for having the largest collection of wildflowers in the world! Home to over 12,000 species, around 60% are only found in WA. Between August and November, WA's botanically rich landscape comes alive with carpets of vibrant colours drawing visitors from all around the world.
Departing a wet and cold Perth, we headed towards Kalbarri on the Coral Coast. We planned for the 6.5-hour (600km) drive to take all day including stops along the way.
Greenough is a small historic settlement just south of Geraldton. Famous for its leaning tree's, the strong prevailing southerly winds cause the River Red Gums to grow sideways, giving them a leaning appearance. The Historic Settlement, which includes the Greenough Store, police station and courthouse, dates back to the 1800s and visitors can walk through the village, taking a glimpse into the past lives of pioneering European settlers in the area.
Picnic in the old town, have lunch at the museum cafe or stop in at the Greenough Wildlife & Bird Park.
Geraldton is located 424km's from Perth and is the major service hub for the mid-west region. By the time we reached this part of the coast, we could feel the warmth of spring and the flowers were on display.
The HMAS Sydney II Memorial honours the 645 Australian WWII sailors who lost their lives when the ship was sunk by a German raider off the coast in 1941. Perched on the hill, overlooking the city, it is definitely worth a visit.
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An hour on from Geraldton, take a break at Port Gregory and have afternoon tea overlooking Hutt Lagoon or the Pink Lake. Due to the presence of the Dunaliella salina algae, the intensity of the pink hue can change colour at various times of the day and year.
Reaching Kalbarri late afternoon, we picked up our key to the perfectly located Cole Cottage and stretched our legs along the foreshore as the sun was setting, before a delicious fish dinner at Upstairs Restaurant - be sure to book a table on the balcony.
The last time I visited Kalbarri was in August 2020 during Covid. You can read about our Coral Coast adventure here.
The Kalbarri National Park spans over 1,800 square kilometres and is home to the magnificent Kalbarri Skywalk - Kaju Yatka. The two cantilevered platforms extend over the Murchison River and gorge below and is truly one of the most magnificent tourist attractions in Australia.
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| Natures Window |
There are plenty of walks within the park. I was travelling with my 80-year-old mother, and it was quite hot, so we only tackled The Loop and Natures Window on this trip. I have previously walked the Z-bend trail which is a much longer trail and you eventually reach the river below. Both carparks showcased some of the most beautiful arrays of wildflowers and it was here we saw our first Spider Orchid.
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| Spider Orchid |
Although Kalbarri National Park and the Skywalk are the drawcard for this area, the Kalbarri coast is great for snorkelling, swimming, surfing and fishing. We packed our picnic and headed to the Blue Holes. Managing to escape the afternoon sea breeze by sheltering behind the car, we had a relaxing time whale watching as they made down the coast breaching, tail and pectoral fin slapping.
We left the coast behind and made our way inland to the heart of wildflower country—Mullewa. The 2.5-hour drive was a scenic journey, with endless fields of vibrant yellow canola stretching out on either side, ready for harvest. Once you arrive in Mullewa, be sure to make your first stop at the Mullewa Visitor Centre. Here, you can grab a map of the area and get insider tips on the best spots to experience the breathtaking wildflower displays that the region is famous for.
In addition to attractions like the museum and the National Trust-classified Church of Our Lady of Mt Carmel, Mullewa is also home to renowned Australian artist Helen Ansell. Her studio, located on the main street, is open daily during the wildflower season, offering visitors a chance to explore her vibrant artworks.
Mullewa offers a mix of both driving and walking trails to explore. The Northern Loop is a 115km scenic drive, while the Southern Circuit covers 145km, taking you past notable sites like the Butterabby Graves and Coalseam Conservation Park.
The Mullewa Wildflower Walk starts near the Mullewa Caravan Park. The 2.8km walk takes about an hour to complete and requires a moderate level of fitness.
Note: Fly nets are available for purchase at the local service station/general store.
Just north of town, you’ll find the Waterfalls and Pioneers Well #2. A 30-minute drive east takes you to the tiny town of Pindar, home to the unique Wreath Leschenaultia Flower. These stunning pink blooms grow in a circular shape and can be spotted along the roadside verges.
Coalseam Conservation Park features 250 million years of history and was the first mined coal deposit in WA. There is so much to do in the park, I wish we had more time to explore. However, the weather had turned, making the dirt roads slippery and the water crossings more challenging.
We spent the night at Mingenew Spring Caravan Park and then made our way to the Mingenew Hotel for a hearty dinner and the cosy warmth of a welcoming fire.
Heading back toward the coast and passing through more lush canola fields, we took the scenic drive through Lesueur National Park. The 18.5 km one-way bitumen road features several lay-bys where you can stretch your legs and take in the beautiful scenery and distant ocean views.
Next, we visited the Pinnacles, where these incredible limestone spires, formed over millions of years, stand as a breathtaking natural wonder. It's definitely a place worth experiencing at least once in a lifetime.
After 1,400 kilometres, we returned to a wet and chilly Perth. It was an incredible mother-daughter adventure, marvelling at the stunning wonders of Western Australia.