JAPAN 2023 - 3 DAY TRIPS FROM TOKYO

 DAY TRIPPING FROM TOKYO

Often a day trip from Tokyo can be as close as a 30-minute train ride. No matter how far you travel, beyond the modern and chic districts of Tokyo are some historically beautiful towns. If your schedule permits, exploring Greater Tokyo is highly recommended. During my recent visit, I thoroughly enjoyed exploring Kawagoe, Kichijoji, Kamakura and Enoshima.

KAWAGOE

Situated a brief 30-minute train ride away from central Tokyo, Kawagoe played a pivotal role as a primary goods provider to the city during its Edo era. Established back in 830, Kitain Temple, also known as Kawagoe Daishi, rose to prominence by the 17th century. Regrettably, some sections of the temple have suffered damage over time, yet remnants of the original Edo Castle endure to this day.

In ancient India, a person who had reached nirvana was called an arahant or better known in Japanese as a Rakan. Between 1782 and 1825, over 500 stone statues representing the disciples of Buddha were carved in stone and can be found at the Kitain Temple. No two statues are alike, each with a different facial expression.

500 Statues of Rakan

Candy Alley is a little shopping street lined with Edo style buildings, selling traditional Japanese sweets, gelato and cakes. After all the walking, sweet treats are welcome.

Candy Alley delights

Kawagoe's Warehouse Districts main street, (Kurazukui Street) is a grand display of Edo Period (1603-1867) architecture. Bustling with tourists, most of the clay-walled warehouse-styled buildings house shops and restaurants. 

There is a lot to see in Kawagoe, the main drawcard being its link to the past. We visited on a Sunday, so the streets were particularly busy. For further information, I found THIS website very helpful.

KICHIJOJI

Just outside central Tokyo, Kichijoji is one of Tokyo's most livable neighbourhoods and it's not hard to see why. Popular for shopping due to the main commercial district being close to the Kichijoji Station, it also boasts the beautiful Inokashira Park, Inokashira Park Zoo and Ghibli Museum. 

Inokashira Park

Exiting the station, I found my way to the Inokashira Park. The moment the lake came into view the hustle and bustle of Tokyo disappeared, leaving me to soak in the serenity. I visited during Autumn, so the paddle boats were locked up for the season; however, the colours were captivating and I took my time to explore. 

Within the park is the Inokashira Park Zoo. The Aquatic Life Park is located on the water's edge; however, the main zoo gate is a mere 5-minute walk away. The zoo is small and has a petting area for small animals such as Guinea Pigs.

If you are a fan of animator and filmmaker Hayao Miyazaki, then you will want to visit the Ghibli Museum. If you are not familiar with his work, then I suggest you watch films such as: Spirited Away, Porco Rosso and Kiki's Delivery Service. They are fabulous! The museum is an easy 20-minute walk from Kichijoji Station and houses memorabilia from the Studio Ghibli films.

The three main shopping arcades of Kichijoji are: Sunroad, Daiyagai and Harmonica Yokocho (Alley). All centrally located around the station, there is a vast variety of shops and restaurants.

KAMAKURA & ENOSHIMA

Kamakura is a coastal town located about an hour and twenty-minutes from central Tokyo. To get there I took the metro to one of Tokyo's larger stations and then caught a JR train to Kamakura using my JR Pass. JR lines can be quite confusing as there are multiple trains using the same platforms/lines. Fortunately, I met a guy from New York who was also travelling to Kamakura, so he helped me out. Never be afraid to ask!

I figure Kamakura is sometimes referred to as the Kyoto of eastern Japan due to the abundance of temples. At the end of Komachi Street - where you can stop for coffee and frequent the trendy boutiques - is Kamakura's most important Shinto shrine, Tsurugaoka Hachimangu. 

Maiden dancing stage, Tsurugaoka Hachimangu

If you are keen to avoid the busy streets, there are several hiking trails around Kamakura. The Daibutsu Hiking Trail is a popular route for tourists visiting the Great Buddha and starts at Jochiji Temple in Kita-Kamakura. It usually takes around 60-90 minutes to complete.

Eager for a glimpse of the beach, I journeyed toward the ocean and followed the waterfront to Hase, continuing on to the Great Buddha situated within the Kotokuin Temple grounds. Originally sheltered within a grand temple hall, this 11.4-metre monument has stood exposed to the elements since the 15th century, following the destruction of the temple structures.

The Enoden electric train began in 1902 and rattles along the coast between Kamakura, Hase and Enoshima. You can buy tickets at the station or tap on/off with your credit card at the platform.

Enoshima Island is about a 20-minute walk from the station. With its abundance of attractions and activities, it merits a day trip all to itself. Getting quite late in the day, I hot footed it up to the Sea Candle, a 60 metre tall observation tower and lighthouse. On a clear day, you can see Mt Fuji in the distance.

Sea Candle

Views from the observation tower

Heading back to Kamakura and then onto Tokyo, I opted for the Shonan Monorail. Suspended from the tracks like an amusement park ride, the train weaves between buildings and houses, offering a unique perspective.

JAPAN 2023 - TOKYO

 TOKYO, JAPAN

OCTOBER 2023

Tokyo Skytree

I've been to Tokyo before. Back in 2008, I joined my husband on a business trip with our 8- and 6-year-old kids, and we fell in love with the city. A lot has changed since then, but Tokyo remains as fantastic as ever. It's still incredibly easy to get around, the locals are welcoming (and many more speak English), the food is exceptional, safety is top-notch, and the coffee scene goes beyond just Starbucks, which is a real plus. 

Direct flights are available from Australia to Tokyo, however I flew via Singapore. Prior to arrival in Japan, all visitors must pre-register their travel details via the Visit Japan website. Once you have logged in and completed all the necessary information, you can save the QR codes to your phone, making immigration very smooth.

Tokyo boasts two major international airports: Haneda and Narita. When arranging your return flights, factor in your arrival and departure points. Haneda, a mere 15 kilometers from Tokyo city, offers much greater convenience. Tokyo's trains don't run 24/7, making taxis a much cheaper option from Haneda. On the other hand, Narita is situated farther from the city and is most easily accessed through the Narita Express Train which takes just under an hour to/from Tokyo Central.

The Japan Rail Pass or JR Pass is a multi-use ticket that allows you to travel around Japan for a select period of time. If you are planning to visit a city outside Tokyo (JR Pass map) then this is your best option as a return Shinkansen (bullet train) fare will likely cost more than the JR Pass. Once validated, the JR Pass can also be used on all JR trains around the city. 

The biggest negative of the JR Pass is locating your nearest JR Exchange Office. Although these are usually found at airports and major train stations (eg: Tokyo, Shinjuku, Kyoto etc), the stations are huge and you can easily get lost. The other negative is, the JR Pass is a paper ticket, therefore if you lose it, ruin it, or forget to collect it on your way through the turnstile, it cannot be replaced.

Tokyo Tower from Roppongi

Tokyo is divided into neighbourhoods, each with its own distinct personality, therefore deciding where to stay will depend on what you want to see and do. I stayed with my daughter in Roppongi. Centrally located, it was an easy walk to the subway, great restaurants and shops. Find out more about Tokyo's neighbourhoods here.

The subway system is really easy to navigate. The lines are coloured, labelled in both Japanese and English and have numbers correlating to the station ie: Ginza G09. I found Google maps incredibly useful too as it gives you step-by-step instructions and tells you the platform number and station exit you need to use.

Japan predominantly operates on a cash-based system, therefore, it's important to carry cash. While restaurants, shops, and cafes generally accept credit cards (unless specified otherwise), it's advisable to have your physical card handy, as some places might not support contactless payments.

As of January 2022, Japan has the highest number of Michelin-starred restaurants in the world and there are over 30 types of Japanese restaurants including:

• Ramen & Soba - Noodles
• Yakitori - Grilled chicken
• Izakaya - Japanese Pub
• Tonkatsu - Deep fried pork
• Sushi - Rice and seafood
• Tempura - Fried seafood and vegetables
• Shabu-shabu - Hotpot

making finding somewhere good to eat a breeze. Yet, the Japanese willingly wait in long lines just to savor a remarkable taste experience. Micasadeco & Cafe serve fluffy soufflé pancakes. Each order takes at least 30 minutes; however, the end product is truly amazing. We happily sat in the window as the queue outside grew longer and longer.

The Japanese hold a strong fascination for animals. It's common to see pet dogs being pushed around in strollers, which initially I thought was due to the crowded streets. But I later learned it's because of their immense love for their dogs—they want to prevent them from getting tired, overexerted, or having sore paws.

For those without pets, there are places like the Chiku-Chiku Cafe where you can experience a healing session. You can spend 30 minutes to an hour, petting hedgehogs in cute little displays resembling dollhouses. For a fee, you get the chance to watch, feed, and interact with these adorable creatures.

The Shibuya Scramble is a crazy crosswalk intersection where thousands of people cross simultaneously. The optimal vantage point to witness this spectacle is from an elevated position, and numerous viewing spots surround the square. Our choice was the rooftop Mag's Park atop the Magnet Building, providing an unparalleled view. Open from 11am onwards, you can observe the crossing from either the open deck or the indoor area.

You see more on foot, so from Shibuya we wandered the back streets and poked around in the vintage fashion stores of Omotesando and then onto Harajuku, witnessing exuberant fashion styles and the fun of Takeshita Street. A train ride for cocktails in Ebisu and then onto Ginza where on Saturdays between Noon and 6.00pm central Chuo Dori street is closed to vehicles.

Ginza is a shopping mecca and is home to the world's largest Uniqlo store. There is so much to see and do in Ginza, you could easily spend a day pottering around the shops. Make sure you visit the department store food courts. They are a feast for the eyes and tummy!

As mentioned, I have been to Tokyo before, therefore visiting iconic tourist spots such as the Tokyo Tower, Skytree, Meiji Shrine or Imperial Palace were not on my to-do list, therefore, leaving me to time to explore Greater Tokyo.

Asakusa is in Northern Tokyo and easily accessible on the subway. During the Edo period (1603-1867), Asakusa was Tokyo's leading entertainment district with kabuki theatres and a large red-light district. Today, the districts drawcard is the Tokyo Skytree and the Sensoji Temple.

Tokyo's Skytree dominates the Asakusa skyline

Exit the station and directly opposite is the Tourist Bureau. Here you can pick up a local map in English. I find these sometimes easier to follow than Google Maps. Here you can also join tours and exchange money. 

I had a fabulous day in Asakusa. Nakamise shopping street leads you through the Hozomon Gate and onto Sensoji Temple. From there I wandered over to Shin-Nakamise Shopping Street and then onto my kind of heaven, Kappabashi Shopping Street. Google Translate became my best friend.

Nakamise Shopping Street

Kappabashi is lined with shops selling pots, pans, cooking utensils, dishes and everything a restaurant operator would need. The knife stores are incredible and you can easily spend half a day poking around looking (and purchasing) at the beautifully crafted pottery bowls and cups.

Tokyo is adorned with numerous exquisite green spaces, and the Government has invested significant effort in planting and safeguarding street trees. Throughout the districts, recorded birdsong fills the air, enhancing the ambiance and creating the impression of avian presence beyond a single tree. Yoyogi Park stands as a delightful and highly enjoyable spot for recreational activities.

Once renowned for its daily tuna auction, the Tsukiji Fish Market used to draw hordes of tourists who flocked to the inner market as early as 4 am to witness wholesalers securing their daily fish haul. However, in 2018, the wholesalers relocated, leaving behind the outer market, which still thrives. Spanning until 2 pm, this area boasts top-notch seafood eateries, souvenir boutiques, and gift shops. Tsukiji is on the Hibiya metro line, stop H10.

Tokyo's immersive art adventure teamLab Planets is an easy 2.5km walk from Tsukiji Fish Market over the Harumiohashi Bridge or just under 1km walk from Toyosu Station (Yurakucho Line Y22). 

Get ready for a unique experience at teamLab Planets. Upon arrival, you'll need to remove your shoes and stow them away in lockers throughout your visit. Prepare for dimly lit spaces, water that reaches knee-high, rooms filled with flickering lights and numerous stunning orchids hanging from mirrored ceilings—it's just a taste of what awaits. This immersive adventure might not suit everyone. When I visited solo, I found certain areas a bit overwhelming, particularly since I wear glasses and sometimes doubt my steadiness in completely darkened spaces at my middle-aged stage.

Hundreds of orchids suspended from a mirrored ceiling

Wall to wall rope lights

The best part of Tokyo is making each district a destination and taking the time to explore the best of the city.

THREE DAY TRIPS FROM TOKYO