JAPAN 2023 - KYOTO

 KYOTO, JAPAN

Anyone planning to visit Japan is likely familiar with Kyoto. For over a thousand years, the city renowned for its temples and shrines was Japan's capital. Today, this must-see destination is highly sought-after during Spring when the Cherry Blossom (Sakura) are in bloom and Autumn when the entire region is covered in a variety of fall colours.

Located in the heart of Japan's main island, Honshu, Kyoto is reachable via flights to Osaka or Tokyo followed by a shinkansen (bullet train) to Kyoto Station. Within Kyoto, getting around is convenient, either by the local transportation network, taxi or on foot. We visited over the Culture Day long weekend in November. From Tokyo Station to Kyoto Station, the shinkansen took a little over two hours, with both stations and the train being exhaustingly crowded.

Once in Kyoto, your next decision is knowing where to stay. Kyoto is divided into districts, each with its own personality and proximity to local attractions. We stayed in the Gion or Geisha district - best known for its narrow alleyways lined with traditional Machiya houses - at Gion Misen Furumonzen. 

Arriving mid-afternoon, we headed to the Nishiki Market. Referred to as Kyoto's kitchen, the market is lined with more than a hundred shops and restaurants. Bumper to bumper with foot traffic, we navigated our way past stalls of fresh produce only stopping to try the local delicacy Tako Tamago - glazed octopus stuffed with a quail egg. Hmmm.... try it for yourself! 

Nishiki Market, Kyoto

Tako Tamago

The Samurai & Ninja Museum is located next to the Nishiki Market. There are guided tours of the museum and at the end you can dress as a Ninja and learn some martial art techniques. The whole experience takes a little over an hour. 

Kamo River

Take a sunset stroll along the Kamo River followed by dinner at one of the restaurants along Pontocho alley. We had dinner at Robin.

ARASHIYAMA

The Arashiyama district sits to the west of Kyoto, just a short 30-minute train ride away. Known for its stunning natural scenery, especially captivating during the vibrant seasons of Spring and Autumn, prepare to be enchanted by its beauty and invigorated by the walking trails. A map of the district can be found here.

Allocate a full day to explore this area, as there's an abundance of sights and activities. The primary attraction is the Tenryuji Temple, while the Bamboo Forest stands out as the area's main highlight. Guided pathways navigate you amidst the towering bamboo groves, historically utilised by local workshops for centuries to craft an array of products like mats, baskets, cups, and boxes.

Tenryuji Temple

Take a stroll past the Okochi Sanso Villa, through the Kameyama Park and down to the Oi River where you can hire a boat or join a river cruise through the scenic Hozu-kyo Ravine. 

Follow the river to the Togetsukyo bridge, then continue towards the Arashiyama Monkey Park Iwatayama, home to more than 200 Japanese Monkeys. Return to Kyoto by boarding the Hankyu Electric Railway at Hankyu Arashiyama Station. The beautifully adorned, wood-panelled carriages evoke a nostalgic ambiance, transporting you as if you've stepped onto a movie set.

FUSHIMI-INARI SHRINE

Located in Southern Kyoto, the Fushimi-Inari Shrine stands as one of Kyoto's most frequented. Renowned for its thousands of torii gates that form a pilgrimage hike behind the main buildings, the 5km journey to the summit at 233m will take around an hour. 

We visited late afternoon and although the shrine is open 24-hours per day and free to visit, we opted for the 5km walk back to Gion via the river. 

Exhausted and hungry we made our way to Obbli for specialty taco's. Tanny, a Kyoto native, picked up the craft of making tacos during Covid, binge-watching The Taco Chronicles on Netflix. Turning his bar into a taqueria, this funky bar not only serves up a variety of Mexican delights, Tanny also mixes up potent margaritas!

HIGASHIYAMA

Our last morning in Kyoto and we headed to Maruyama Park. This is one of Kyoto's prettiest open spaces and hugely crowded during Cherry Blossom time. 

Nanzenji Temple is one of the most important Zen Temples in Japan. The main complex is surrounded by sub temples and there is a waterfall grotto approximately 200m up in the hills behind the temple.

The Philosopher's Path is another of Kyoto's most picturesque walks. Near 2kms long, the path follows the Lake Biwa Canal and is lined with a number of restaurants, cafes and boutiques. 

Philosopher's Path

Kyoto has so much to offer, one trip is just not enough. I would love to see it during Spring when the Cherry Blossom is in bloom; however, I was more than delighted by the beauty of Autumn.

If you don't have time in your schedule for Kyoto, read about three, day trips from Tokyo here.

JAPAN 2023 - 3 DAY TRIPS FROM TOKYO

 DAY TRIPPING FROM TOKYO

Often a day trip from Tokyo can be as close as a 30-minute train ride. No matter how far you travel, beyond the modern and chic districts of Tokyo are some historically beautiful towns. If your schedule permits, exploring Greater Tokyo is highly recommended. During my recent visit, I thoroughly enjoyed exploring Kawagoe, Kichijoji, Kamakura and Enoshima.

KAWAGOE

Situated a brief 30-minute train ride away from central Tokyo, Kawagoe played a pivotal role as a primary goods provider to the city during its Edo era. Established back in 830, Kitain Temple, also known as Kawagoe Daishi, rose to prominence by the 17th century. Regrettably, some sections of the temple have suffered damage over time, yet remnants of the original Edo Castle endure to this day.

In ancient India, a person who had reached nirvana was called an arahant or better known in Japanese as a Rakan. Between 1782 and 1825, over 500 stone statues representing the disciples of Buddha were carved in stone and can be found at the Kitain Temple. No two statues are alike, each with a different facial expression.

500 Statues of Rakan

Candy Alley is a little shopping street lined with Edo style buildings, selling traditional Japanese sweets, gelato and cakes. After all the walking, sweet treats are welcome.

Candy Alley delights

Kawagoe's Warehouse Districts main street, (Kurazukui Street) is a grand display of Edo Period (1603-1867) architecture. Bustling with tourists, most of the clay-walled warehouse-styled buildings house shops and restaurants. 

There is a lot to see in Kawagoe, the main drawcard being its link to the past. We visited on a Sunday, so the streets were particularly busy. For further information, I found THIS website very helpful.

KICHIJOJI

Just outside central Tokyo, Kichijoji is one of Tokyo's most livable neighbourhoods and it's not hard to see why. Popular for shopping due to the main commercial district being close to the Kichijoji Station, it also boasts the beautiful Inokashira Park, Inokashira Park Zoo and Ghibli Museum. 

Inokashira Park

Exiting the station, I found my way to the Inokashira Park. The moment the lake came into view the hustle and bustle of Tokyo disappeared, leaving me to soak in the serenity. I visited during Autumn, so the paddle boats were locked up for the season; however, the colours were captivating and I took my time to explore. 

Within the park is the Inokashira Park Zoo. The Aquatic Life Park is located on the water's edge; however, the main zoo gate is a mere 5-minute walk away. The zoo is small and has a petting area for small animals such as Guinea Pigs.

If you are a fan of animator and filmmaker Hayao Miyazaki, then you will want to visit the Ghibli Museum. If you are not familiar with his work, then I suggest you watch films such as: Spirited Away, Porco Rosso and Kiki's Delivery Service. They are fabulous! The museum is an easy 20-minute walk from Kichijoji Station and houses memorabilia from the Studio Ghibli films.

The three main shopping arcades of Kichijoji are: Sunroad, Daiyagai and Harmonica Yokocho (Alley). All centrally located around the station, there is a vast variety of shops and restaurants.

KAMAKURA & ENOSHIMA

Kamakura is a coastal town located about an hour and twenty-minutes from central Tokyo. To get there I took the metro to one of Tokyo's larger stations and then caught a JR train to Kamakura using my JR Pass. JR lines can be quite confusing as there are multiple trains using the same platforms/lines. Fortunately, I met a guy from New York who was also travelling to Kamakura, so he helped me out. Never be afraid to ask!

I figure Kamakura is sometimes referred to as the Kyoto of eastern Japan due to the abundance of temples. At the end of Komachi Street - where you can stop for coffee and frequent the trendy boutiques - is Kamakura's most important Shinto shrine, Tsurugaoka Hachimangu. 

Maiden dancing stage, Tsurugaoka Hachimangu

If you are keen to avoid the busy streets, there are several hiking trails around Kamakura. The Daibutsu Hiking Trail is a popular route for tourists visiting the Great Buddha and starts at Jochiji Temple in Kita-Kamakura. It usually takes around 60-90 minutes to complete.

Eager for a glimpse of the beach, I journeyed toward the ocean and followed the waterfront to Hase, continuing on to the Great Buddha situated within the Kotokuin Temple grounds. Originally sheltered within a grand temple hall, this 11.4-metre monument has stood exposed to the elements since the 15th century, following the destruction of the temple structures.

The Enoden electric train began in 1902 and rattles along the coast between Kamakura, Hase and Enoshima. You can buy tickets at the station or tap on/off with your credit card at the platform.

Enoshima Island is about a 20-minute walk from the station. With its abundance of attractions and activities, it merits a day trip all to itself. Getting quite late in the day, I hot footed it up to the Sea Candle, a 60 metre tall observation tower and lighthouse. On a clear day, you can see Mt Fuji in the distance.

Sea Candle

Views from the observation tower

Heading back to Kamakura and then onto Tokyo, I opted for the Shonan Monorail. Suspended from the tracks like an amusement park ride, the train weaves between buildings and houses, offering a unique perspective.

JAPAN 2023 - TOKYO

 TOKYO, JAPAN

OCTOBER 2023

Tokyo Skytree

I've been to Tokyo before. Back in 2008, I joined my husband on a business trip with our 8- and 6-year-old kids, and we fell in love with the city. A lot has changed since then, but Tokyo remains as fantastic as ever. It's still incredibly easy to get around, the locals are welcoming (and many more speak English), the food is exceptional, safety is top-notch, and the coffee scene goes beyond just Starbucks, which is a real plus. 

Direct flights are available from Australia to Tokyo, however I flew via Singapore. Prior to arrival in Japan, all visitors must pre-register their travel details via the Visit Japan website. Once you have logged in and completed all the necessary information, you can save the QR codes to your phone, making immigration very smooth.

Tokyo boasts two major international airports: Haneda and Narita. When arranging your return flights, factor in your arrival and departure points. Haneda, a mere 15 kilometers from Tokyo city, offers much greater convenience. Tokyo's trains don't run 24/7, making taxis a much cheaper option from Haneda. On the other hand, Narita is situated farther from the city and is most easily accessed through the Narita Express Train which takes just under an hour to/from Tokyo Central.

The Japan Rail Pass or JR Pass is a multi-use ticket that allows you to travel around Japan for a select period of time. If you are planning to visit a city outside Tokyo (JR Pass map) then this is your best option as a return Shinkansen (bullet train) fare will likely cost more than the JR Pass. Once validated, the JR Pass can also be used on all JR trains around the city. 

The biggest negative of the JR Pass is locating your nearest JR Exchange Office. Although these are usually found at airports and major train stations (eg: Tokyo, Shinjuku, Kyoto etc), the stations are huge and you can easily get lost. The other negative is, the JR Pass is a paper ticket, therefore if you lose it, ruin it, or forget to collect it on your way through the turnstile, it cannot be replaced.

Tokyo Tower from Roppongi

Tokyo is divided into neighbourhoods, each with its own distinct personality, therefore deciding where to stay will depend on what you want to see and do. I stayed with my daughter in Roppongi. Centrally located, it was an easy walk to the subway, great restaurants and shops. Find out more about Tokyo's neighbourhoods here.

The subway system is really easy to navigate. The lines are coloured, labelled in both Japanese and English and have numbers correlating to the station ie: Ginza G09. I found Google maps incredibly useful too as it gives you step-by-step instructions and tells you the platform number and station exit you need to use.

Japan predominantly operates on a cash-based system, therefore, it's important to carry cash. While restaurants, shops, and cafes generally accept credit cards (unless specified otherwise), it's advisable to have your physical card handy, as some places might not support contactless payments.

As of January 2022, Japan has the highest number of Michelin-starred restaurants in the world and there are over 30 types of Japanese restaurants including:

• Ramen & Soba - Noodles
• Yakitori - Grilled chicken
• Izakaya - Japanese Pub
• Tonkatsu - Deep fried pork
• Sushi - Rice and seafood
• Tempura - Fried seafood and vegetables
• Shabu-shabu - Hotpot

making finding somewhere good to eat a breeze. Yet, the Japanese willingly wait in long lines just to savor a remarkable taste experience. Micasadeco & Cafe serve fluffy soufflé pancakes. Each order takes at least 30 minutes; however, the end product is truly amazing. We happily sat in the window as the queue outside grew longer and longer.

The Japanese hold a strong fascination for animals. It's common to see pet dogs being pushed around in strollers, which initially I thought was due to the crowded streets. But I later learned it's because of their immense love for their dogs—they want to prevent them from getting tired, overexerted, or having sore paws.

For those without pets, there are places like the Chiku-Chiku Cafe where you can experience a healing session. You can spend 30 minutes to an hour, petting hedgehogs in cute little displays resembling dollhouses. For a fee, you get the chance to watch, feed, and interact with these adorable creatures.

The Shibuya Scramble is a crazy crosswalk intersection where thousands of people cross simultaneously. The optimal vantage point to witness this spectacle is from an elevated position, and numerous viewing spots surround the square. Our choice was the rooftop Mag's Park atop the Magnet Building, providing an unparalleled view. Open from 11am onwards, you can observe the crossing from either the open deck or the indoor area.

You see more on foot, so from Shibuya we wandered the back streets and poked around in the vintage fashion stores of Omotesando and then onto Harajuku, witnessing exuberant fashion styles and the fun of Takeshita Street. A train ride for cocktails in Ebisu and then onto Ginza where on Saturdays between Noon and 6.00pm central Chuo Dori street is closed to vehicles.

Ginza is a shopping mecca and is home to the world's largest Uniqlo store. There is so much to see and do in Ginza, you could easily spend a day pottering around the shops. Make sure you visit the department store food courts. They are a feast for the eyes and tummy!

As mentioned, I have been to Tokyo before, therefore visiting iconic tourist spots such as the Tokyo Tower, Skytree, Meiji Shrine or Imperial Palace were not on my to-do list, therefore, leaving me to time to explore Greater Tokyo.

Asakusa is in Northern Tokyo and easily accessible on the subway. During the Edo period (1603-1867), Asakusa was Tokyo's leading entertainment district with kabuki theatres and a large red-light district. Today, the districts drawcard is the Tokyo Skytree and the Sensoji Temple.

Tokyo's Skytree dominates the Asakusa skyline

Exit the station and directly opposite is the Tourist Bureau. Here you can pick up a local map in English. I find these sometimes easier to follow than Google Maps. Here you can also join tours and exchange money. 

I had a fabulous day in Asakusa. Nakamise shopping street leads you through the Hozomon Gate and onto Sensoji Temple. From there I wandered over to Shin-Nakamise Shopping Street and then onto my kind of heaven, Kappabashi Shopping Street. Google Translate became my best friend.

Nakamise Shopping Street

Kappabashi is lined with shops selling pots, pans, cooking utensils, dishes and everything a restaurant operator would need. The knife stores are incredible and you can easily spend half a day poking around looking (and purchasing) at the beautifully crafted pottery bowls and cups.

Tokyo is adorned with numerous exquisite green spaces, and the Government has invested significant effort in planting and safeguarding street trees. Throughout the districts, recorded birdsong fills the air, enhancing the ambiance and creating the impression of avian presence beyond a single tree. Yoyogi Park stands as a delightful and highly enjoyable spot for recreational activities.

Once renowned for its daily tuna auction, the Tsukiji Fish Market used to draw hordes of tourists who flocked to the inner market as early as 4 am to witness wholesalers securing their daily fish haul. However, in 2018, the wholesalers relocated, leaving behind the outer market, which still thrives. Spanning until 2 pm, this area boasts top-notch seafood eateries, souvenir boutiques, and gift shops. Tsukiji is on the Hibiya metro line, stop H10.

Tokyo's immersive art adventure teamLab Planets is an easy 2.5km walk from Tsukiji Fish Market over the Harumiohashi Bridge or just under 1km walk from Toyosu Station (Yurakucho Line Y22). 

Get ready for a unique experience at teamLab Planets. Upon arrival, you'll need to remove your shoes and stow them away in lockers throughout your visit. Prepare for dimly lit spaces, water that reaches knee-high, rooms filled with flickering lights and numerous stunning orchids hanging from mirrored ceilings—it's just a taste of what awaits. This immersive adventure might not suit everyone. When I visited solo, I found certain areas a bit overwhelming, particularly since I wear glasses and sometimes doubt my steadiness in completely darkened spaces at my middle-aged stage.

Hundreds of orchids suspended from a mirrored ceiling

Wall to wall rope lights

The best part of Tokyo is making each district a destination and taking the time to explore the best of the city.

THREE DAY TRIPS FROM TOKYO

PORTUGAL 2023 - LISBON, CASCAIS & SINTRA

 LISBON, CASCAIS & SINTRA

September 2023

Albufeira

We drove from Spain to Lisbon via Albufeira in the Algarve region of southern Portugal. The Algarve is popular with British travellers who can fly from London and be on the beach in under three hours. The region also has many internationally acclaimed golf courses, along with resorts, fabulous food, cycle trails and boat tours. It would be very easy to spend a week or two exploring the area. 

Arriving in Lisbon late afternoon, we dropped our car off at the airport and ubered to the Wine & Books Hotel in Belem. Located within walking distance of Belem Tower, the Maritime Museum, the Archaeology Museum, Jeronimos Monastery and of course the famous Pasteis de Belem (home of the original and best Portuguese custard tarts), the suburb of Belem is a good half hour drive from Lisbon city centre. 

CASCAIS

Cascais is about an hour west of Lisbon and regarded as the Portuguese Riviera. Easily reachable by train from Cais de Sodre, it was at the Casino Estoril, where Ian Fleming first penned James Bond. 

If you can afford more than just a daytrip, then you can hire bikes and cycle the coastline to Guincho beach. Alternatively, visit on a Wednesday or Saturday when the Mercado da Vila is on and just enjoy people watching, the beach and resort town.

Mercado da Vila

SINTRA

Sintra would have to be the number one, day trip destination for people visiting Lisbon. Easily accessible by train, once you get there you will need to source transport to navigate the very steep hills to visit the many tourist attractions. Hiring e-bikes from Park-e-bike is a fabulous option and when you book, you will gain access to the Routzz self-guided tour app, which makes visiting ultra easy.

When visiting Sintra, plan your route and timing well and where possible purchase your tickets online in advance. Entry to see the inside of the Pena Palace is timed, therefore if you miss your designated window, then you won't be able to visit (unless you buy another ticket). If you're not keen on long queues and dawdlers, then just purchase a ticket to visit the beautiful palace gardens.

Within walking distance of the Pena Palace is the Castelo dos Mouros or Moorish Castle. The fortification snakes across the hills with spectacular views across to the Atlantic Ocean. The parks surrounding the castle are as stunning as the Pena Palace gardens. Be prepared for lots of stairs to test your fitness.

There is so much to see and do around Sintra, that navigating the narrow windy roads heaving with tourist buses, tuk-tuks and taxi's makes for hungry and thirsty peddlers. We stopped for lunch at Taverna dos Trovadores before heading to the 19th Century villa Quinta da Regaleira. In the parks of the palace, you will find an initiation well, which used for ceremonial purposes, but never as a water souce. Again, the gardens alone are spectacular and a great place to wander or picnic.

Feeling exhausted our last palace was Monserrate. Fortunately, there was a transfer vehicle to take us through the magnificent gardens from the gate to the palace entrance. The interior of the palace is incredible with hand painted tiles and plaster work resembling lace. This was definitely one of my favourite places.

Thank you Sintra for a truly memorable day. I loved e-biking around all the different sites and how amazing to have so much beauty in one place. It was one of the best days on our trip.

LISBON

Commerce Square, Lisbon

We caught the train from Cascais along the coast to Cais de Sodre which not only serves the train and metro system but is also the main ferry terminal across to Cacilhas. Lisbon is made up of a collection of neighbourhoods, each with their own unique points of interest. 

Cais de Sodre is very popular, as its close to the Tagus River boasting the urban beach Ribeira das Naus, the Rua Nova do Carvalho or Pink Street and Mercado da Ribeira - also known as the Time Out Market where we enjoyed a very pleasant lunch and glass of local wine at Sea Me.

We stayed at the Epic Sana Marques Hotel. Located atop one of Lisbon's many hills, we found we could wander down and transport back up either by uber, taxi or one of the famous yellow trams.

Having travelled through Spain and absorbing its history, we didn't book to see many paid attractions in Lisbon. We were more than happy to just wander the streets and absorb the atmosphere. We did, however, visit the Quake Museum. In 1755 Lisbon experienced a 7.7 magnitude earthquake which devastated the city, killing 30,000 - 40,000 people. The city was ablaze as people scrambled to safety. Forty minutes after the quake (which lasted between 3.5 and 6 minutes) a 12 metre high tsunami struck, pushing more debris and wood onto the fires which then raged for over five days.

The Quake Museum is an interactive experience which reenacts the earthquake and explains the devastation caused to the city and its population. It also highlights how Lisbon became one of the first cities to be built using an earthquake-proof building design.

Eating is much easier in Portugal with restaurant times being more along the lines of what we are used to at home. We had some really delicious meals at: Officio, Da noi, Sala de Corte, Gunpowder and Cervejaria Ribadouro. Don't forget to book.

We will definitely visit Lisbon again. There is so much to see and do such as the Sao Jorge Castle, Museu de Aljube and the Museu Nacional do Azulejo (National Tile Museum). Not to mention a day trip to Cacilhas and the elevator to the Cristo Rei Statue.