PILBARA, WESTERN AUSTRALIA

 KARRATHA & PORT HELDLAND

SEPTEMBER 2021

When we told people we were going to Karratha the general response was why? Well, mostly because we had flight vouchers which were due to expire and we can't fly anywhere outside Western Australia without getting locked out (thanks Premier McGowan!) due to Covid. So we dotted the map and decided that it was still cool enough (average 32℃) to fly north and get a better understanding of WA's mining industry.

Karratha is located in the Pilbara region of WA, approximately 1,500km north of Perth or a two hour flight. Our flight departed Perth at 6.45am so we were in Karratha for breakfast. With a population of around 20,000 and a fly in/fly out (FIFO) hub for some of WA's largest mines, Karratha has a lot on offer and is great starting point for a those looking for a different kind of adventure. We stayed at Latitude 20 - the Dunes. A very cosy apartment with kitchenette, washing machine and balcony with Webber BBQ. 

Karratha means 'God's own country' or 'Sacred Earth'
and was once a cattle station

ROEBOURNE, COSSACK, PORT SAMSON & WICKHAM

Roebourne is approximately 50km from Karratha and first settled by John and Emma Withnell who is touted to be the 'Mother of the North-West'. Following the 52km Emma Mary Withnell Heritage Trail, you pass numerous points of interest including Cossack, Wickham and Point Samson.

Roebourne was the North-Wests first gazetted town. The Roebourne Heritage Trail (download the map here) starts at the Roebourne Police Station, Gaol and Court Precinct. Unfortunately, when we visited the gaol was closed, however the drive trail and information boards offer up a view of the past. 

The Victoria Hotel is now the Ganalili Centre

Originally named 'Tien Tsin' after the boat which carried the first settlers to the region in 1863, Cossack was once the home of many seeking their fortune in the Pilbara Gold rush. Also, once home to Australia's pearl shell industry, the ghost town's blue stone buildings including the Galbraith Store, Post and Telegraph Office and Courthouse which houses the museum, have been restored and visitors can wander the Cossack Heritage Trail or stop for lunch at the cafe . Accommodation is available at the B&B or you may choose to camp at one of the beach sites.

Visiting some of Australia's oldest buildings is not to be missed. Not only is the history of the buildings, architect (George Temple-Poole) and founding families of interest, the information regarding the Afghans, Chinese and Indigenous population is also engrossing.

Galbraith & Co were chain retailers
who had over 200 stores by the 1940s

Port Samson is a sleepy coastal town with a quiet holiday resort and safe swimming ocean beach. The Samson Beach Tavern has a vast menu including delicious fish and chips and overlooks the water.

On the way back to Karratha, we drove around Wickham, viewed the town from Water Tank Hill and drove out to the Wickham Yacht Club and Boat Beach where between October and February flatback, green and hawksbill turtles come nest with hatchings between December and April.

The Cape Lambert port operated by Rio Tinto has a 2.7km open sea wharf and is one of the longest in Australia. Capable of loading three iron ore carriers at once, the bustling railway lines zig-zig across the port as they make their way to and from the unloading station. 

The Karratha Industrial Estate can be accessed via De Witt Road and here you will find the North West Brewing Company. What a great place to stop on a hot afternoon, have a beer (or two) and listen to some live music. We happened to be there on the afternoon of the AFL Grand final so the place was abuzz and filling up fast.

Dinner was at Fiorita Wine Bar & Restaurant. Part of the Star Deck Group who have three or four establishments in the area, Fiorita has a good selection of beverages and probably one of the best crab pastas I've had in ages. 

THE BURRUP PENINSULA, DAMPIER & 

THE DAMPIER ARCHIPELAGO

The Burrup Peninsula, about 20 minutes drive from Karratha with the main town being Dampier. Covering nearly 5,000 hectares, the Murujuga National Park hosts one of the largest concentrations of rock art in the world dating back more than 30,000 years. The famed petroglyphs or Aboriginal stone engravings can be viewed from the 600m Deep Gorge Walk.

Other places to visit on the Burrup Peninsula are:

• Hearsons Cove - swimming at high tide, mudflats at low tide, it is 2WD accessible and is the best place to view the staircase to the moon.
• Cowrie Cove - 4WD access only. Great at low tide for exploring the mudflats and finding sea creatures such as mudcrabs. 
• Whitnell Bay - Fantastic place to launch your boat and spend the afternoon snorkelling, swimming, 4WDing, fishing, swimming and boating. 

The Red Dog Walking Trail begins at the Red Dog Memorial on the way into Dampier. The walk (or drive) provides travellers an opportunity to learn about the picturesque coastal town.

Red Dog (named after the red dirt of the Pilbara region) was a cattle dog who travelled between Perth and Broome, always returning to his base in Dampier or Karratha. Red Dog died in 1979 and in 2011 a movie was made based on his life.

The Dampier Archipelago has 42 islands, islets and rocks within a 45km radius of Dampier. Best known for fishing and boating, the coral reefs, sponge gardens, sea grass and more than 650 species of fish are also popular with divers and snorkellers. If you don't have your own vessel, boats can be hired or alternatively you can opt for a diving/snorkelling tour or join Archipelago Adventures on a day cruise.

MILLSTREAM CHICHESTER NATIONAL PARK

Driving two hours inland from Karratha towards Tom Price, you reach Millstream Chichester National Park. The drive east it is a train spotters paradise as iron ore trains are constantly on the move heading to and from the port. Our first stop was the Mount Herbert Summit where you witness panoramic views of the Chichester Ranges and Roebourne coastal plain. The iron ore mounds covered in spinifex create quite an amazing vista. 

Mount Herbert Summit

Pythons Pool is a popular swimming spot with a sheer rock face and deep water hole. The waterfall had dried up when we were there, however I would love to see it after the wet when the pool is full and flowing. 

The Homestead Visitors Centre was built in 1919 and has been restored as a museum. Featuring a shearers kitchen, the irrigated lawns are a nice place to have a picnic under the trees. There are BBQ facilities, toilets and interpretive walk trails. The centre is open from 8am to 4pm daily, however is not always staffed by Rangers.

The Cliff Top Walk is a great place to see the Fortescue River and distant Hamersley Ranges. Below the cliffs is Deep Reach Pool. Home to the Barrimurdi Warlu (Serpent), the large pool is great for swimming, canoeing and fishing. Picnic tables, BBQ's and toilet facilities are available. Park and camping fees are payable at the self-registration station.

Note: We have a WA Annual Parks Pass purchased via the RAC.

Fortescue River from the Cliff Top Walk

Deep Reach Pool

Exhausted after a long day, we had returned to Fiorita for happy hour and had a very nice Indian at the Bollywood Lounge in Karratha. 

No trip to an regional town can be had without checking out the local leisure centre and bakery. Since 2008, Royalties for Regions has invested $6.1 billion of the states mining and offshore petroleum royalties to develop regional communities in order to make them more liveable. Karratha's Leisureplex is fabulous with pools, a gym, creche, sports courts and cafe. 

The Pilbara Bakehouse is a must after a workout (or any time really). They have a huge selection of pies, sandwiches, cakes and beverages. Yum!

PORT HEDLAND

Port Hedland is a 2.5 hour drive north of Karratha. It is the second largest town in the Pilbara Region. Founded in 1863, it grew as a pearling port and then an outlet for the tin and gold of the Pilbara field. Over the years, it has become one of the world's largest bulk export ports, with exports including iron ore, lithium and salt.

Dalgety House was built in 1903 and opened as a museum in 2000. There are five rooms filled with photos, books and interactive displays. The Koombana Exhibition is a tribute to the luxury cargo ship SS Koombana which disappeared off the coast of Port Hedland during a tropical cyclone in 1912 killing 147 passengers and crew. Although numerous deep-water expeditions have been held to find the wreck, the ship has never been found.

The Port Hedland Cultural Heritage Trail is a self-guided walk around the West End and historic sites. Taking in locations such as:

•  The Esplanade Hotel (where we had a very nice lunch in the beer garden), 

The Esplanade Hotel

and beer garden

• The Pier Hotel - was once written up in a 1970s edition of London's Sunday Telegraph magazine as the 'Toughest Pub in the World'

The Pier Hotel where 33,000 glasses were broken each year
and half the entire stock replaced every month

• The old Medical Staff Quarters - now a Dome cafe, and

The old Medical Staff Quarters

• The Courthouse site - the original building was built in 1905

the walk is a great way of getting an understanding of what life would have been like prior to the mining infrastructure takeover.

We caught up with local real estate agent, Jim Henneberry, who very kindly took us on a tour of the town centre and explained that residents are no longer allowed to reside in the centre of Port Hedland due to health and safety regulations. As the commodore of the Port Hedland Yacht Club, he also enlightened us on the building of the new marina and as the ex-president of the Port Hedland Chamber of Commerce and Industry, he gave us a really good insight into the goings on in the Port. It was a very insightful meeting.

The Twilight Industry (Port) Tour with Phil departs the Visitors Centre at 4.45pm. Travelling in an air-conditioned bus, you get to experience landmarks such as the port entry channel and the miner's port operations; stopping for a complimentary drink whilst watching the sunset. Phil's knowledge of everything mining was amazing and he knew how to handle some really curly questions. For example: "do scuba divers watch the channel to make sure the ships don't hit the bottom?". 

In Port Hedland we stayed at the Hospitality Motel and had a really lovely dinner in their dining room.

Up early to catch our flight back to Perth, we really enjoyed our long weekend away and getting a better understanding into WA's mining industry. Put it on your bucket list!

 

KIMBERLEY, WA ROADIE

 KIMBERLEY ROADIE

JULY 2021

Departing Perth (and one of the wettest July's on record) we flew to Broome. I love Western Australia's (WA) changing landscape as you leave the green trees and hit the red dirt and then the aqua blue of the ocean against the white sand of Cable Beach. It puts indigenous art into perspective showing the topographical mapping of the land. 

Due to a recent Covid outbreak, WA had shut its border to the Northern Territory, therefore our 4WD hire car in Kununurra was cancelled. Fortunately, we managed to hire a Britz 4WD Safari Landcruiser with rooftop tent in Broome. Our only issue was we were meeting our friends at Kununurra airport, so we had 24 hours to get from Broome to Kununurra - 1,045 kilometres or approximately 11 hours' drive!

NOTE: 4WD hire is hard to come by in the Kimberley, therefore if you are planning a trip make sure you book your 4WD before you book anything else. I have previously blogged about Kununurra and El Questro Station here.

Britz 4WD Safari with rooftop tent - 5 person manual

The Great Northern Highway (1) is a two-lane highway that traverses the state. It is long and straight and has quite a few one lane bridges. Watch out for wildlife (especially at dusk and dawn) and cattle that wander freely along the edge of the road. Road trains frequent the highway and one nearly pushed us off the road as he lined up to cross one of the narrow bridges. 

The Great Northern Highway is straight and long
watch out for wildlife (including cattle)

Places of interest along the highway are:

• Willare Bridge Roadhouse - we had a delicious barra burger for dinner.

A barra burger at Willare Bridge Roadhouse
is worth stopping for

• Fitzroy Crossing - about halfway between Broome and Kununurra. We stayed at the Fitzroy River Lodge and were told "it is fairly quiet at the moment. We haven't had a guest car stolen for at least a month". 

• Geikie Gorge - unfortunately we didn't have time to visit Geikie Gorge, however, we have added it to our bucket list.

• Mary Pool - a spacious free campground with toilet facilities.

• Halls Creek - we did a quick tour of Old Halls Creek and the China Wall.

The China Wall is a natural vein of
sub-vertical white quartz

Arriving in Kununurra right on time, we collected our friends and headed back along the highway toward the Cockburn Range. A brood of four adults, our original itinerary was to just visit the East Kimberley, however since we now had to return the car to Broome, we decided we would add an extra couple of days to our adventure and drive back via the Gibb River Road.

Our first stop was Emma Gorge Resort. Part of El Questro Station, Emma Gorge can now be reached via the sealed Gibb River-Wyndham Road. There are a couple of water crossing going into the resort, however by the time we visited in mid-July the water had subsided, so we were able to easily reach the reception and accommodation. We have previously stayed at Emma Gorge Resort and found the comfort of the glamping tents, a hot shower and cup of tea very welcoming. We had dinner at Emma's restaurant located on-site.

Emma Gorge Resort Safari Tents with ensuite

Nature can be very noisy in the mornings! Up with the birds we headed out for the day starting at Zebedee Springs. It is a half hour drive from Emma Gorge Resort to El Questro Station and apart from Emma Gorge itself, all other gorges and walks are located at the station. 

If you haven't been to El Questro before, then Zebedee Springs is a good place to start. The spring fed thermal pools are open to the public from 7am to 12pm and are an easy walk from the carpark. It's a very popular swimming hole, so either be the first to arrive or plan your timing so you can find a secluded pool.

El Questro Gorge walk is not for the faint hearted. It is a 4.8km return hike to the top, however you may choose to stop at halfway pool (2.8km return). To continue to the top, you have to get wet and scramble over a large boulder. Here the hike changes from a Grade 4 to a Grade 5. This is the most challenging and my favourite walk at El Questro. The water crossing to the carpark is quite deep. 

Entry to El Questro Gorge is
via a deep water crossing

Halfway pool is a 2.8km return walk

Its a rewarding swim if you make it to the top
Oh, and don't forget to pack lunch and a beer!

No rest for the wicked, we had no sooner got back to Emma Gorge for a shower and cuppa when we headed back to El Questro and up Saddleback Ridge for sunset. Again, this track is for 4WD's only and if you are not a confident driver, then it is probably best to avoid it. Water crossings, hairpin turns and loose gravel is okay in daylight, however once the sun goes down and you are returning in the dark it can be quite challenging. 

Saddleback Ridge at Sunset

El Questro Station is a hive of activity in the evenings with food vans, entertainment and a licenced bar. We had dinner at the Steakhouse restaurant located on-site, however many campers were enjoying pizzas and burgers in the communal area.

Diesel and unleaded fuel is available at El Questro. It is wise to take some cash with you when travelling in remote areas as online banking and Eftpos payments can often be an issue due to internet outages.

Emma Gorge is a much easier walk and best done in the morning before the heat of the day. Being one of the more popular walks, it can get very busy by mid-morning. There is limited shade along the trail once the sun is high, therefore wear appropriate clothing and take plenty of water.

Emma Gorge - get there before the crowd

Leaving Emma Gorge Resort, we headed back down the Great Northern Highway to the Bungle Bungles in the Purnululu National Park. Stopping at Warmun Roadhouse for fuel and barra burger No 2 (this was voted #1), we unfortunately missed visiting the Warmun Art Centre as it was closed due to Covid. The road into the Bungle Bungles is 4WD access only and the 53km from the turnoff to the visitor's centre takes approximately 2 hours. The road is corrugated and windy, therefore it is advised to drop your tyre pressure. Every vehicle is different so consult your hire car company, however on the Toyota Safari we were driving, we dropped the tyre pressure from psi 40 to psi 30. Tyres can be inflated at the Warmun Roadhouse on your way out if you don't have a tyre compressor.

Once a part of Mable Downs Station, the Purnululu National Park was declared a World Heritage Site in 2003. There are two parts to the Bungle Bungles - the North where you will find Echidna Chasm, Mini Palms and Kungkalanayi Lookout and the South where you will find the maze of orange and black beehive karst sandstone domes and walks such as Cathedral Gorge, Piccaninny Creek Lookout and Whip Snake Gorge.

Echidna Chasm in the North

The beehive shaped domes of the south

Cathedral Gorge - great for a picnic and reprieve from the heat

We stayed at Savannah Lodge whilst our friends stayed at the APT Wilderness Lodge. Located towards the south side of the range and 200m apart, both offer dinner, bed and breakfast along with a licenced bar.

Savannah Lodge cabin with ensuite

APT Wilderness Lodge ensuite tent

There is something to be said about the beauty of the sunsetting against the red rock of the Kimberley. The best viewing platform in the Bungle Bungles is at Kungkalanayi Lookout. Here you get a 360-degree view of the National Park and Mable Downs Station. Don't forget the G'n'T.

A sunset view from Kungkalanayi Lookout

One way of getting a top-down view of this amazing landscape is to take a scenic flight. We did the 20-minute flight with Helispirit from the Bellburn Airstrip located in the National Park. 

 

Leaving the Bungle Bungles behind us, we headed north again towards Wyndham. Stopping only to inflate our tyres at the Warmun Roadhouse, we stopped for lunch at the Doon Doon Roadhouse about an hour up the highway. Barra burger No 3 - we were on the hunt for the best! Although Doon Doon didn't win the Barra Burger prize, they did make an extremely good milkshake, thick with ice-cream.

Established in 1886, the Port of Wyndham was an essential link to the Halls Creek gold rush and later serviced the beef industry with a meatworks opening in 1919. In 1914 the Wyndham Wireless Station was built assisting ships entering the port and it also played a part in WW1. Once the landing point for aviators trying for solo flying records between England and Australia, the towns port is still in operation. Since the closure of the meatworks in 1985 the town has suffered a decline in population and employment opportunities.

Reminiscent of their time as teachers in Wyndham it was great to visit with our fellow travellers who met there 30 odd years ago. It was good to get a first-hand glimpse of the once bustling town and hear stories of naughty school kids (and teachers), the local footy club, Lee Tongs Store (where everything was labelled in pounds, shillings and pence) and rock-hard meat pies from the local bakery.

Lee Tongs Store

Pixie's Emporium

Located 20 minutes' drive from Wyndham on the road to Kununurra is The Grotto. This was one of my favourite swimming holes and easy to get to via the 140 steps. I imagine it can get very busy, however we visited on our way into town mid-afternoon. Baxter the Border Collie was having a great time, along with the big kids on the rope swing.

Following the King River Road, we headed out to Diggers Rest Station for the night. Close to an hour's drive from Wyndham, Diggers Rest is a cattle station owned and run by Roderick and Alida Woodland. It was here that the crew filming Baz Luhrmann's movie 'Australia' starring Hugh Jackman and Nicole Kidman set up camp. The station offers horse riding adventures and many of the staff volunteer their time in lieu of food and board. 'On the Verandah' art retreats are also held throughout the season. We stayed in bush huts and joined the staff and other guests for dinner (BYO grog) at the homestead. Watch out for the frogs in the toilet!

NOTE: The Kimberley has alcohol restrictions and valid identification is required when making purchases. We took fillable wine bags with us from Perth. Each bag holds 2 bottles of wine and are great when storage is an issue or when you are avoiding unwanted breakages.

Heading back towards Wyndham is the Hillgrove "Lockup" or prison tree. Used in the late 1800s and early 1900s, the hollowed-out section inside the trunk was used by police to house prisoners. There are a few prison trees scattered around the Kimberley.

The Five Rivers Lookout located at the top of the Bastion is where you can see the King, Ord, Durack, Forrest and Pentecost Rivers flow into the Cambridge Gulf. It also gives you a clear view of the Wyndham port and town below. Other places of interest in Wyndham are:

• Warriu "Dreamtime" Park - large statues depict early Aboriginal life in Wyndham

• Wyndham Historical Society Museum - located at Wyndham port and open Monday - Sunday 10am - 2pm, the museum contains memorabilia, journal records and photographic displays of Wyndham since European settlement in the 1880s.

• Parry's Lagoon Nature Reserve - view tropical birds and crocodiles at Marlgu Billabong. 

Make sure you stop at the Croc Cafe and Bakery on the way into town and on the way out. The pies are to die for (not to mention the friendly staff) and one just isn't enough!

Get in early as this is the most popular place in town

The Gibb River Road

Heading east to west along the Gibb River Road we passed El Questro, over the Pentecost River, past Home Valley Station and onto Ellenbrae Station. The sealed road ends at the Pentecost River and after that the road is corrugated and bumpy. We let our tyres down to psi 30 and didn't inflate them again until just before Derby.

Crossing the Pentecost River

The unsealed Gibb River Road

Ellenbrae Station is run by Larissa and Logan and open to tourists approximately six months of the year. Cabins are available with a booking, alternatively there are two campsites equipped with hot showers and a camp kitchen. Fires are permitted; however, it is advised to collect wood along the road on the way as there isn't much lying around the campsites. Ellenbrae has two waterholes close to the campgrounds where you can swim, fish and bird watch.

Ringers camp is one of two campsites at Ellenbrae

The kitchen at Ellenbrae is open from 8am to 4pm and offers the best scones in the Kimberley along with mango frappes, toasties and coffee. BBQ meat packs and salad can be pre-ordered for collection on check-in. 

Ellenbrae make up to 17,000 scones per tourist season

Ellenbrae to the Mt Barnett Roadhouse is 185km or an approximate 3-hour drive. This is where you can access Manning Gorge a medium grade hike which takes around 2-3 hours return. We unfortunately didn't have time to do the 6km hike to Manning Gorge, so opted to visit Galvans Gorge instead. Around 20 minutes further on from the Mt Barnett Roadhouse, the gorge is easily accessible from the carpark and a favourite amongst locals.

Galvans Gorge - a 15 minute walk from the carpark

Getting closer to the King Leopold Ranges we were booked in to stay at Dulundi (Silent Grove) Campground, however we happened upon the Bell Gorge APT Wilderness Lodge and lucky for us they had some available accommodation. A hot shower and three course meal will always win over a rooftop tent and dusty campground; besides it gave us the opportunity to visit Bell Gorge at sunset instead of wasting time setting up camp.

Option 1: A hot shower, dinner, bed and breakfast

Option 2: 4 adults in a tent

Bell Gorge is a must see along the Gibb River Road. The campground is a 19km drive from the turnoff (just past the Imitji Community Store) and then the start of the gorge walk is another 10km from the campground. This was the roughest road along our whole trip, but worth it for the amazing vistas and waterfall. The swimming pool at the bottom of the first waterfall is magic and a great place to hang out for a day (or two). 

Bell Gorge is not to be missed

Bumping our way further east we headed to Tunnel Creek. Tunnel Creek is an easy 2km walk through a 750m limestone cave formed by the creek flowing through it. Once the hideout for Aboriginal leader Jandamarra in 1897, you will need a powerful torch to navigate the dark cave and waterway. Wading through thigh deep water in most parts, some areas of the creek require you to swim, so wear bathers and shoes that can get wet. Watch out for the freshwater crocodile that lives in the cave!

Take a powerful torch so you can really see
what the cave has to offer

Now on the other side of the King Leopold Ranges, Bandiling (Wandjana) Campground is very popular and bookings are essential. Fires are permitted in the firepits, however wood cannot be collected within the National Park, so make sure you pick up sticks along the way. The campground has toilet and shower facilities.

Bookings are essential at Bandiling Campground
as it gets very busy

There are three walking trails at Windjana. 

• The Savannah Walk - this 1km loop walk takes you through the grasslands outside the gorge.

• The Time Walk - this 2km walk takes you onto the sands of the riverbank where you can see freshwater crocodiles.

• The Gorge Trail - this is a 7km hike continuing on from the Time Walk along the riverbed.

The limestone gorge is spectacular especially in the morning light. Crocs were making their way onto the riverbank and shags were drying off in the sun. 

Around 40km from Derby we reached sealed road again and came across a crazy Frenchman walking from Broome to Darwin. Not my idea of fun especially as the day before we'd seen at 6ft+ king brown snake on the road. Bon chance Dominique!

Civilisation at last (or at least a town). Derby became the first gazetted town in the Kimberley and served as a port town for the pastoralists servicing the Halls Creek goldrush. Today, the port supports the mining industry. Derby is the main base for the Royal Flying Doctor service. 

The drive from Derby to Broome takes around 2 hours. Keen to spend the afternoon on the beach before flying back to Perth the following day, we arrived in Broome, booked into a two-bedroom cabin at the RAC Cable Beach Holiday Park and did just that. Cable Beach would have to be in the top 10 of anyone's "best beaches in the world" list. 

Lucky for us our flight was rescheduled so we got to spend another whole day in Broome soaking up the sunshine and heat before returning to the wintery conditions of Perth. All up we did over 3,000km in ten days. Another sun sets on a fantastic trip with friends through this spectacular country.