PRAGUE
A CITY OF HISTORY, CULTURE & SURPRISES
JANUARY 2025
We left Berlin on the morning train, enjoying lunch as we crossed the border into Czechia. Arriving in Prague, you must be careful not to get off at the wrong station, as the announcements are in Czech. Realising our mistake (we had done the same thing in Dresden), we quickly managed to get back on the train and alight at the correct stop.
The Prague train station, Hlavní nádraží, is an impressive Art Nouveau gem. Opened in 1909, the station boasts intricate mosaics, ironwork, and beautiful stained-glass windows. The grandeur of the building stands as a testament to Prague’s architectural history, welcoming visitors with its blend of old-world charm and modern convenience.
Although Ubers and taxis are plentiful, Prague is a wonderfully walkable city. We stayed at The Old Town Loft Luxe Brickhouse, just a short distance from the station and central to the Old Town. We were a brood of six as we met up with our friends from Western Australia.
Our friends, having grown up in Prague, were our local guides, and we were more than happy to follow their lead. They spoke the language, and their knowledge of the city allowed us to see Prague from a more authentic perspective. Still, we found opportunities to venture out on our own.
I’ve mentioned before that I love hop-on/hop-off buses. I truly believe you get more information listening to the bus commentary as you drift through the streets than you would reading plaques or keeping up with a walking tour. In Prague, however, the system works a little differently. You have to download an app and listen through your phone. While the app was a great source of information, it was a bit tedious, especially for those not familiar with smartphone technology. We also encountered some museums where app downloads were required to use their audio guides, which proved to be frustrating.
Despite the app hiccups, a bus ride through Prague’s beautiful streets was a fantastic way to get our bearings. We hopped off at St Nicholas Church and wandered down the cobbled streets to the Prague Story Museum. The exhibits, covering everything from crusaders to war through the ages, were fascinating. The museum also shed light on the connections between Prague and Germany, including uprisings and concentration camps, which tied in well with what we had seen on our Berlin trip.
Lunch in the Jewish Quarter was a highlight. The area is home to some of Prague's oldest and most significant synagogues, including the Old-New Synagogue, which dates back to the 13th century, and the Spanish Synagogue, renowned for its ornate Moorish Revival style. The Quarter has a rich and poignant history and walking through it was a powerful experience.
Wandering through Prague, we also stumbled upon many of the city’s public art pieces:
- The Penguins at Kampa Park are an amusing and somewhat surreal installation, bringing a lighthearted contrast to the otherwise serene surroundings.
- The Franz Kafka Statue is another intriguing sight. Located on the Žižkov TV Tower, it features a giant Kafka head that rotates on the hour, an artistic reflection of Kafka’s shifting and multifaceted identity.
- The Saint Wenceslas statue, which depicts the king on horseback, is inverted, offering a quirky take on this iconic figure.
- Wenceslas Square, a historical site of monumental importance, is also where many pivotal moments in Czech history unfolded, including the deaths of students during the 1989 protests. It’s considered a meeting point for locals, and legend has it that the best place to gather is under the tail of the horse in the statue.
After some drinks along the way, we had dinner at El Camino Spanish Tapas. The degustation meal was superb, though I think we were all too tired to truly appreciate the full range of flavours.
The Astronomical Clock, located at Prague’s Old Town Hall, is another must-see. Every hour, the clock chimes and the figures of the apostles move, much to the delight of onlookers. The story goes that the architect who designed it had his eyes gouged out to ensure that no replica could ever be made, making this clock a unique treasure.
No trip to Prague would be complete without a visit to Prague Castle. Perched atop a hill, the castle offers sweeping views of the city. To get there, you inevitably cross the Charles Bridge, one of Prague's most famous landmarks. Completed in 1402, this iconic structure connects Old Town with the Lesser Town. The bridge is adorned with statues of saints and offers a stunning perspective of the castle.
Along the way, we stopped at the Museum of Alchemists and Magicians of Old Prague. This quirky museum delves into the fascinating world of alchemy, where figures like John Dee and Edward Kelley, who were supported by Holy Roman Emperor Rudolf II, sought to turn base metals into gold and search for the Philosopher’s Stone. The stairs to the tower are the oldest in Prague dating back to 1547.
Prague Castle, one of the oldest in the world, has been the seat of Czech rulers for over 1,000 years. The castle complex includes the Gothic-style St Vitus Cathedral, where many Czech kings, including Charles IV, are buried. Saint Wenceslas, the figure behind the famous Christmas Carol, is also laid to rest here. The castle is steeped in history and is a must-visit for anyone interested in the Czech Republic’s royal past.
We had lunch at a charming café within the castle grounds before continuing our exploration, including a visit to the castle’s torture chambers and armour rooms—quite a sobering experience but an important part of the castle’s history.
As night fell, we ventured to the U Prince Hotel for drinks and then dove into the Old Bohemian Country Platter for dinner. This hearty dish, featuring duck, pork roast, sausages, and dumplings, was a true challenge. But in Prague, it’s a challenge that must be accepted.
We also took the opportunity to hire a car for a day, allowing us to visit locations from our friend’s childhood in the city. It was fascinating to see his old school and family home, which, according to him, hadn’t changed much since the 1950s and 60s.
Lunch at Manifesto Market Andel was a relaxed affair. Though not quite like the Timeout Market in Lisbon as we had expected, it was still a good spot to grab a hot bowl of noodles.
We ventured further afield to visit Chocotopia Chocolate Factory, a delightful stop where we learned about the process of making fine Czech chocolate. A sweet end to our day!
Weather-wise, we were lucky with some days reaching 12°C, but we also had some that barely got above 3°C, making for chilly walks, especially for my feet!
Late-night drinks at Anonymous Bar added a touch of excitement, as the bartenders poured fiery cocktails under pulsating lights. It was definitely a different vibe, but we were all in the mood for it!
On our final day, we visited the Communist Museum, a thought-provoking place detailing life under the Communist regime in Prague. It was an eye-opening experience and a good way to reflect on the country’s turbulent past. We followed this with lunch at Public Chilli, which served some of the best food we’d had all trip.
Our farewell dinner was at U Flecku, one of Prague’s oldest traditional taverns. With music, beer, and honey mead, the lively atmosphere was the perfect way to say goodbye to a city that had truly stolen our hearts. U Flecku, with its historic charm, will no doubt outlive all of us.
One last stop before bed at Wine Table. Open from 3pm - 11pm, they serve boutique and premium wines along with homemade produce.
