KIMBERLEY - BROOME & THE DAMPIER PENINSULA

KIMBERLEY - BROOME & 

THE DAMPIER PENINSULA

Broome, Western Australia's gateway to the Kimberley, transforms into one of the states most vibrant hubs during the winter and the north-west dry season (May - October). With daily direct flights from the eastern states, it's now easier than ever to reconnect with friends and family while escaping the chill and rain.

Having visited Broome several times, we were eager to give our first-time visitor friends a taste of the Kimberley's splendor over a long weekend in July.

Arriving at lunchtime, Broome's airport is conveniently located close to Broome central. Taxis in Broome are in demand and with no ride-share options (ie: Uber), I recommend booking your airport to accommodation transfer prior to arrival.

Depending on where you choose to stay - Broome Central or Cable Beach - there is plenty to see and do and the local Broome Explorer Bus is the cheapest and most convenient way to get around.

We chose to stay at the Cable Beach Club Resort & Spa making the most of our relaxing time in the sun, with walks along the beach, sunset drinks and of course the world-famous camel rides. There are plenty of great accommodation options in Broome; however, book in advance especially during school holiday's as it gets booked out very quickly.

Although Broome's heritage goes back thirty-thousand years with the First Nations people, European settlement began in the late 1880's when it became a prominent pearling port. The interactive Pearl Luggers Museum gives a fascinating insight into the history of the pearling industry. The museum showcases the equipment used by pearlers, details the life of a pearler and displays examples of items made from mother-of-pearl.

During the early 19th century, Broome was a hive of activity and had a vast multi-cultural population. Many Asian migrants settled in Broome, and this is reflected in the Japanese, Chinese and Muslim cemeteries. Aboriginals also worked on the pearling boats having been relocated from their homelands across the north-west region.

Greatly impacted by both World Wars and the bombing of Broome by the Japanese in 1942, the pearling industry was all but lost. However, the introduction of cultured south sea pearls (or Broome pearls) has rejuvenated the industry with many pearl farms located on the Dampier Peninsula.

A walk around the town and you will find yourself lost in the many pearl retail outlets such as: Willie Creek, Pasparley and Cygnet Bay Pearls.

Wander through Chinatown and past the world's oldest outdoor picture gardens - Sun Pictures. Stop at the Roey Hotel for lunch in the beer garden or ponder the local produce at the Broome Courthouse Markets (Sat & Sun 8am-1pm). Hop on a bike or walk the self-guided Jetty to Jetty heritage trail, have a round of golf at the Broome Golf Club and don't forget to stop in at one of the many art galleries showcasing art inspired by the region.

• Short St Gallery
• Broome Gallery
• Black Stump Gallery
• Kimberley Art

The Kimberley is known for its crocodiles, and the Malcolm Douglas Crocodile Park offers the perfect opportunity to see them up close. Daily feedings take place at 3pm, and if you're lucky, you might even get to hold a baby hatchling!

If you are lucky enough to find yourself in Broome when a full moon occurs, then you will be able to experience the Staircase to the Moon over Roebuck Bay. Afterwards, enjoy a great meal at any one of Broome's many fabulous restaurants such as: The Aarli, Matso's Brewery, the Mangrove Hotel or any one of the restaurants at Cable Beach Club Resort & Spa.

If you're still looking for an excuse to visit Broome, then get a group together and head to the Broome races. The Broome Cup is held every August and is a highlight on everyone's calendar.

DAMPIER PENINSULA

If you have the opportunity to hire a car and visit the Dampier Peninsula, then it is well worth it. The red, red earth seeps into your bones and the natural beauty is second to none.

In 2023, Main Roads sealed the 200km road between Broome and Cape Leveque, making it much easier for visitors to explore. However, keep in mind that many side roads are 4WD only and there is little to no mobile reception.

We first visited Cape Leveque in 2016 which you can read about here. Since then, Kooljaman has closed; however, the church at Beagle Bay is still open to the public along with One Arm Point and the Cygnet Bay Pearl Farm.

Having hired a 4WD, this trip we drove from Broome to James Price Point (or Walmadany) along the Manari Road. Just 60km north of Broome, this part of the Dampier coastline is nicknamed 'Australia's Jurassic Park'. Over 21 different types of dinosaur tracks have been discovered around this area.

Returning along the same road, we stopped in at the Willie Creek Pearl Farm. Having done the Pearl Luggers tour the day before, it was striking to see the contrast and observe how pearling is done today.

Three nights felt too short to catch up with friends and showcase this magnificent part of Australia. However, I believe their brief experience will inspire them to return and explore more of the Kimberley. Find further blogs on the Kimberley Region here.

NSW RODEO ROADIE - JUNE 2024

 NSW RODEO ROADIE

JUNE 2024

When planning a road trip with friends, having an exciting destination in mind is crucial. Just mentioning the word "rodeo" quickly got everyone excited for an adventurous journey through mid- and central-west New South Wales (NSW).

We had previously visited and thoroughly enjoyed a day at the Harvey Dickson Rodeo in Boyup Brook, so felt it was time to venture beyond Western Australia and head to Coonamble, NSW, for their annual rodeo. 

Commencing our journey in Sydney, we were a brood of six adults travelling in a Hyundai Staria. Our original hire was a Kia Carnival, so we were more than happy with the additional legroom and baggage space. The sliding doors make tight parking a breeze and the expansive windows were perfect for enjoying the scenery (and for others to watch us!).

On the road and our first stop was the Blue Mountains Echo Point lookout where we planned to do the 3km return Cliff Walk from the visitor's centre. Unfortunately, it was a particularly wet and foggy day, so we were unable to see anything past the railing; however, lunch was booked at Bowery, Katoomba and we managed to have a good walk around the Leura and Katoomba shops. 

The Blue Mountains have always been a favourite destination and you can read about our previous visit here. 

Bowery is an old church converted to a very nice restaurant & bar

Over the mountains and we headed for the mid-west town of Mudgee. Burrundulla Farmhouse is a very well-appointed Airbnb run by my school friend Petrina and her husband Jeremy Cox. The rental is located on their property, so they very kindly entertained us for dinner in the historic Burrundulla Homestead dining room with its original furniture and paintings.

Heritage listed, Burrundulla, was built by the Cox family in the 1860's. A working farm, the property is also home to Burrundulla Wines.

Mudgee's reputation is swiftly growing due to its fine wines and produce, making it an increasingly popular tourist destination as its population expands. Althea by Zin bakes up delicious specialty breads, pastries and coffee. Get there early or put in an order as their produce is in demand.

High Valley Cheese Co.  makes all its cheeses onsite using renewable energy and locally sourced milk. Cheese tastings are conducted from the small shop and afterwards you can pop into Gilbert for lunch or a wine tasting.

Rosby, situated just beyond Mudgee, hosts the annual Sculptures in the Garden Expo, the largest regional outdoor art exhibition held every October. Despite our visit on a rainy day in June, there were still ample sculptures to admire. Grab a glass of wine (or a bottle) from the cellar door and take a wander.

Heading north we passed through many small country towns and started noticing a few cowboys on their way to Coonamble. One such town was Dunedoo, birthplace of champion jockey Hugh Bowman. The town has a pub, bakery and public toilet and a huge silo dedicated to Hugh and champion thoroughbred 'Winx'. The painting is one of many on the Australian Silo Trail.

In 2017, Mark and Wendy Osmond traded their bustling life in Sydney for a serene off-grid existence near Coonabarabran. With Mark's engineering expertise and Wendy's affection for emus, they have created a distinctive haven known as the Dark Sky Eco Retreat. This totally sustainable retreat features two accommodations, each equipped with an outdoor spa and BBQ facilities, and a cosy combustion fireplace for the cold winter nights. The lodgings offer views of the surrounding emu paddocks, making it a truly unique getaway.

During our stay, we had the opportunity to tour the property in electric golf buggies. Some of the highlights included learning about ancient Aboriginal message trees, mastering the art of water divining, and discovering how to live off-grid. However, the most memorable experience was getting up close with the emus. These flightless birds, native to Australia, are both curious and gentle. Mark and Wendy enthusiastically shared their passion and extensive knowledge about breeding and caring for these remarkable creatures.

Dark Sky Eco Retreat is nestled in the Warrumbungle region, also known as Big Sky Country. Renowned as Australia's astronomy capital, it offers unparalleled opportunities for stargazing beneath its dark, pristine skies. At their private observatory on the property, Mark and Wendy dazzled us with an extraordinary big screen sky show, which was followed by a captivating view of the planets and solar system through their telescope.

The Emu

If you have the luxury of a few more days with Mark and Wendy, there's still plenty to explore. Warrumbungle National Park offers a variety of trails, including the renowned Breadknife and Grand High Tops walk, considered one of the best hikes in New South Wales, along with stunning viewpoints.

As mentioned at the start of this blog, our road trip was aimed at attending the Coonamble Rodeo and Campdraft, an annual event held over the June long weekend. Using Google Maps to navigate to the Coonamble showground, we encountered a hiccup: the app didn't lead us on the most practical route, and we ended up getting our car stuck in the mud. Thankfully, the good ol' bush telegraph came to our rescue, and with the help of some kind locals, we made it to the rodeo just in time for the main event.

Like most rodeos, there was no shortage of mud, beer, steak sandwiches, and fascinating people-watching, not to mention the grit and courageous determination of the competitors. It was definitely worth the drive.

On our way back to Sydney, our first stop was Dubbo, home to the Taronga Western Plains Zoo. Opened in 1977, this zoo offers a more natural environment for larger animals. Given the park's vast size, visitors can explore by driving, cycling, walking, or renting electric carts. Additionally, there are accommodation options available within the grounds.

An Ostrich vs an Emu. An Ostrich has a much longer neck.

After a good stretch of the legs and animal spotting, we drove on to Orange. We stayed in a very comfortable three-bedroom rental, Paradise on Prince, conveniently located and close to the city centre. Dinner at the Union Bank is always a favourite, with a great brunch at the Agrestic Grocer and potter around the shops, including JUMBLED and the newly opened Dirty Janes Emporium, the following day. A lazy, cold afternoon and wine tasting at Borrodell Estate before a fabulous dinner at Hey Rosey Wine Bar. Be sure to book as it only has seating for 20 people.

Orange's beautiful winter colours

If you like the idea of a golf getaway, then consider a stay and play at Duntryleague. Built in 1876, the historic guest house offers 14 rooms with ensuites. 

For further travel ideas, you can read about our last visit to Orange in April 2023 here.

Duntryleague Guest House & Golf Club

Revved up and Sydney bound, we couldn't resist making a stop at Bathurst to experience the legendary Mount Panorama Circuit. Renowned for hosting the Bathurst 1000, the track doubles as a public road, allowing anyone to take their car for a 60km/hr hot lap. Obeying the speed limit, our rented Staria 'cornered like it's on rails' and it wasn't long before we had the sliding doors open and gasping for air. So thrilling, we went around again, taking a moment to enjoy the view from the top.

With clear skies, we returned to Echo Point Lookout and finally saw the Three Sisters. It was still too chilly and we were short on time, so once again, we skipped the Cliff Walk and chose to have lunch at The Bunker in Leura instead.

We wrapped up our 1500 km round trip, accomplishing everything we aimed to do. It wasn’t a relaxing holiday by any means—we were constantly on the move. However, we had the pleasure of meeting many wonderful fellow Australians and discovering more of the incredible experiences this amazing country has to offer.