POMPEII & HERCULANEUM
POMPEII
Back in 2010, the Western Australian Museum in Perth hosted the unforgettable exhibition A Day in Pompeii. Offering a glimpse into ancient Roman life and showcasing over 250 artefacts from the buried city, the standout was a gripping 3D short film recreating the eruption of Mount Vesuvius in 79 AD. Since then, a visit to Pompeii has been on my bucket list.
Located in Italy’s Campania region, not far from Naples, Pompeii is one of the world’s most visited archaeological sites. Once a thriving Roman port, as seen in the short film it was buried under metres of volcanic ash. Today, it showcases well-preserved streets, homes, frescoes and bakery ovens offering a vivid glimpse into everyday life nearly 2,000 years ago. Though locals had long known of ruins in the area, formal excavations didn’t begin until 1748. Now a UNESCO World Heritage site, ongoing excavations are uncovering new areas and expanding our understanding of the city that once was.
At the time, no one saw Mount Vesuvius as a threat. Its last eruption had been many centuries earlier, so its danger was unknown and although there had been some unusual activity in the days leading up to the eruption, the residents didn't really understand what the signs meant.
Before the eruption, Vesuvius was much bigger—possibly up to 2,200 metres. The explosion in 79 AD blew off its peak, leaving it around 1,280 metres high today. The eruption came suddenly, catching residents going about their day-to-day lives completely by surprise. Many were buried where they stood, and centuries later, archaeologists discovered the hollow spaces left behind in the ash. By filling these voids with plaster, they were able to create detailed casts of the victims—capturing their final moments in haunting detail.
Today, Vesuvius is still active and closely monitored.
GETTING THERE
The easiest way to reach the ancient site is by train from Napoli Garibaldi to Pompei Scavi – Villa dei Misteri, or you can opt for a guided tour, taxi, or private transfer.
As we were based in Positano (you can read about our Amalfi Coast adventures here), we teamed up with Christina from Aldo Limos in Sorrento to plan a fantastic day trip. She helped us visit both Pompeii and Herculaneum, with a stop for lunch and wine tasting at Bosco de' Medici Wine Resort — the perfect spot to admire Vesuvius from a different angle and appreciate taste some of Campania’s flavours.
TICKETS & GUIDED TOURS
Tickets to Pompeii should be booked in advance via the official TicketOne website, especially since new regulations introduced in November 2024 cap daily visitors at 20,000. During peak season (April–October), entry is split into two slots: morning (9am–1pm) and afternoon (1pm–5:30pm). Tickets are now personalised, so take photo ID matching your booking. You can choose between the Pompeii Express (main site only) or Pompeii Plus (includes suburban villas). Book early—tickets can sell out fast!
Guided tours can be arranged directly at the entrance between 9.00am and 3.00pm. Alternatively, you can pre-book through a tour company for a more curated experience.
We opted for a private tour organised by Christina at Aldo Limos, and it was absolutely the right choice. Our guide, the brilliant Dr Daniela Mantice, brought Pompeii to life with her deep knowledge and passion for its history. With years of guiding experience under her belt, Daniela kept us fully engaged, weaving stories of ancient life as she led us skillfully through quieter paths, avoiding both the crowds and the heat.
HERCULANEUM
Herculaneum is Pompeii's lesser-known neighbour and due to its closer proximity to Mount Vesuvius, its fate was quite different to Pompeii's. While Pompeii was smothered in volcanic ash and pumice over the course of the day, Herculaneum was hit later and faster. It was buried under a mix of gas, ash, and debris that solidified into over 20 metres of volcanic material, preserving the city almost in its entirety. This thick layer essentially “sealed” the town, protecting delicate features like wooden furniture, frescoes, mosaics, and even food from decay.
Meeting up again with guide Dr Daniela Mantice, we managed to escape the 45-degree heat of the day by ducking into the beautifully preserved homes, with charred furniture, including beds, shelves and wooden sliding doors. The bathhouses had opulent mosaic floors and marble clad walls, while the private gardens, replanted with species from the roman age, captured the breeze revealing Herculaneum's quieter, wealthier lifestyle.
At the time of the eruption, it was long believed that most of Herculaneum’s residents had managed to escape. However, excavations in the 1980s uncovered hundreds of skeletons huddled in the boat houses near the ancient shoreline. When word of the strange, towering cloud rising from Mount Vesuvius reached the Roman naval base across the bay, rescue ships were dispatched to help evacuate those stranded. Tragically, as residents waited by the shore in hope of rescue, a scorching pyroclastic surge — with temperatures exceeding 400°C — swept through the city, killing all in an instant.
GETTING THERE
Herculaneum is about 20 minutes from Pompeii and easily reachable by train. Alternatively, you can catch a taxi between the two sites.
TICKETS
Tickets can be purchased online in advance or at the gate. Guided tours are available, however as Herculaneum is less popular than Pompeii, it is advisable to book a guide in advance.
Herculaneum was definitely my favourite of the two sites — more compact, better preserved, and easier to take in. But it wouldn’t have had the same impact without first experiencing the scale and devastation of Pompeii. Seeing both gave the full picture.
As the heat of the day caught up with us and our heads swirled with everything we’d seen and learned, we said goodbye to Daniela and made our way back to the cool waters of Positano. A fabulous day out — bucket list adventure ticked, and a memory we’ll carry for years to come.
